From: Eric Neilsen (e.neilsen@worldnet.att.net)
Date: 11/13/02-06:39:11 PM Z
Jeff, Shaking is a no, at least I don't recommend it; with a
possibility of loose caps and all. Stirring or swirling is ok. This
however assumes that you have clean solutions. Occasionally filtering
your platinum salt is OK. Heating of your platinum is good, as long as
it is not to hot. It is also ok for palladium but not required/needed
for it to stay in solution unlike the platinum.
I keep a 2 1/12 gallon room humidifier that works with a wick and fan to
adjust the humidity in a small box that is approx. 3'x3'x2.5' built into
one of my work tables. It has a small 2 1/2" coaxial fan to circulate
the air. It works fine. My paper is dried in a similar box but with a
heater in it with the rheostat move from within the unit to hanging in
the box away from the heater to keep the heat from the metal from
influencing the temp reading. It is under my coating area so it stays
warm, and that really helped in Taos where the room would be cool to
cold but my coating area was warm.
Do what ever you do the same every time and that should help.
Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street
Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
http://ericneilsenphotgraphy.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Buck [mailto:jeffbuck@swcp.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 8:34 AM
To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Subject: RE: Consistency Is No Hobgoblin
Eric: No, I don't shake, heat or stir. I had a notion those things are
to
be avoided.... I don't tape off the application area. I square a
mat-board frame a little bigger than the image area over the paper for
the
first few strokes (to establish the coating area) then put it aside and
finish coating.... How do you humidify paper in half an hour? -jb
At 12:54 AM 11/13/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>Jeff, I think Liam has pointed you in a good direction. Your solution
>volumes are ok, although there may be a change in density of solution
in
>your bottles. Do you shake , stir, heat, your coating solution
bottles?
>
>
>Tape off your area of coating to be applied? Are you running a room
>heater at the same time you are printing? Over a few hours you may see
>changes in the papers. I generally keep the paper dry up until 1/2
hour
>before printing then humidify.
>
>
>Eric Neilsen Photography
>4101 Commerce Street
>Suite 9
>Dallas, TX 75226
>http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
>http://ericneilsenphotgraphy.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeff Buck [mailto:jeffbuck@swcp.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 8:58 PM
>To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
>Subject: Consistency Is No Hobgoblin
>
>Actually, it's the tendency of a phenomenon to recur in the same
>form.... Anyway, after doing platinum/palladium for about fifteen
>months
>now, I find if very difficult to achieve. I arrive at a print that is
>satisfying. I want to repeat it. So, I use the same paper, the same
>chemicals (plain FO, pure palladium, PO w/ sodium dicromate mostly),
the
>
>same exposure, and the same developer. As for ambient temperature and
>humidity, I can get pretty close to repeating, especially this time of
>year
>when I'm producing both artificially (by and large). Like the last
>couple
>days, I'm printing this negative, and the temp is between 65F and 70F,
>the
>humidity is in the range of 60% to 70%. In each instance, the paper
has
>
>been laying out in the area of that temp and humidity for a few hours;
>it's
>a little "heavy" and tacky to the touch. I guess I made four prints in
>these conditions (I was double-coating Platine, if that makes any
>difference). There were notable differences in the overall darkness of
>the
>prints and in degree of contrast. Would you expect discernible
>differences
>working within these variations in temp and humidity? How do you
>measure
>the temperature of the FO and platinum or palladium? I'm squeamish,
>maybe
>for no reason, about putting a thermometer into a bottle of precious
>metal....
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