From: Christina Z. Anderson (zphoto@montana.net)
Date: 10/12/02-09:06:57 AM Z
Thanks for all the answers. You all reduced my frustration level at
not finding my book. This is great, below. I also am cutting and pasting
another answer I received off list that may be of interest, from a friend of
Don Bryant's. Check out her website--nice stuff. OH, and Mark, the book I
had that I had lent out was Theresa Airey's new one on Creative Digital
Printmaking. I've gotta stop doing that. I have lost more books that way.
And the aiko address is this : http://www.aikosart.com/ not the one below.
But this one is the best: http://www.digitalartsupplies.com/japan110.html
Also, I had heard of a technique at APIS a couple years ago of taking the
thin japanese paper and using removable adhesive, adhering it to a thicker
paper to run it thru the printer, and then removing it right away. That was
with ALPS printers, tho, and I'm not sure if that technique works equally
well for ink jet, so I like your technique below, Mark.
Chris
"The paper I used for the Ephemerata scrolls is called "Japan 90" made by
Hahnemuhle. You can purchase it online from Digital Art Supplies; their
URL is www.digitalartsupplies.com Cut sheets range from 8.5x11 to 17x22;
they also have rolls 13", 17", 24",
36" and 44" wide by 65 feet long. also a sample roll 36" by 7 feet. When I
made the scrolls, they only had 44" wide rolls, so I had to cut 13" wide
sections myself. Your student might want to get some small sheets to try
out. You will not get fine detail printing on this paper; so it was perfect
for my greatly enlarged pinhole images. Digital Art Supplies also has some
other Japanese paper for inkjet printing, some of which comes in rolls and
large sheets. I got a sample pack of these to try-- they seem to hold detail
better than the Japan 90. Jan
Lightworks Fine Art Photography at http://lightwork.cnchost.com
Pinhole, Alt-Process, Large Format and Digital Imagery by Jan Kapoor"
> I don't think this is off topic, because you can test how images will look
on
> paper this way before making an Alt Photo print on them too.
> I have used a variety of Japanese hand made papers from AIKO
(www.aiko.com)
> and we are fortunate enough to have a store here in the Chicago area. So
far
> I have used a lot of the rice papers. They are usually pretty thin, but
make
> beautiful prints and are great floated between two pieces of glass or
mounted
> against another piece of hand made Japanese papers.
> Aiko has a nice catalogue that you can order with samples of their papers.
> Some of the sales people can tell you about which papers will hold up for
Alt
> Photo and for digital printing. Usually a sized paper will work better,
> because it will hold more of the ink on the surface. However, sometimes
it
> looks nice also with more dot gain.
> Some of the papers you have to tape the leading edge on to a firmer piece
of
> paper to get it to feed through, though I have run some very fine papers
> through my printer without doing this. If you do use another sheet
> underneath, be carefull that the suction caused by the printhead movement
> doesn't lift the edges on the side of the paper because this could cause
> tearing of the paper, ink smearing and possible damage to the print head.
I
> use an Epson 10000 that has a suction to help hold the paper firmly, in
> addition to the rollers. For lighter papers you would want to set the
> suction lower, or if using a backing paper, perforate it a bit so the
suction
> action gets through to the top sheet.
>
> Obviously you can't use the really thick, textured papers or you will have
a
> problem with them hitting the print head. Also, be carefull of papers
that
> have a lot of loose fibers or fuzz, since this can build up on your
printhead
> and plug it, or leave a residue that will cause white spots on subsequent
> prints.
> Some papers look better if you move the output slider in levels up a bit
on
> the dark end.
> Do you remember the name of the book?
> Hope this helps,
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