From: Bill Collins (photo@intrex.net)
Date: 10/25/02-07:10:15 AM Z
So, someone else is making a Hobo type camera! Anyone else?
Here's what I did:
I bought a B&J 5x7 back on ebay (pretty cheap since it didn't have a ground glass) and made a 2 inch deep wooden frame to fit. I covered the front of the frame with plywood and cut a hole in the center. Then, I made another, smaller, frame that is mounted over the hole. In this frame, I mounted a speed graphic type lens board with a 90mm Super Angulon. (I used the speed graphic lens board because I have an adapter to use it in my Toyo 4x5 monorail also. I didn't want to dedicate a $500 lens to one camera)
I used the f/calc software package to calculate the lens to film distance to have the depth of focus just reach infinity at f/16 and made the front frame just a little deeper than needed, so I could sand it to the correct dimension. In a strange reverse application of Murphy's law, the lens position was close enough to the right place without any adjustment!
I just finished it a few days ago. I have taken one test "picture" to test for light leaks, but have not developed it yet. (I pulled the darkslide out for 10 minutes with the shutter closed)
The Super Angulon covers 5x7, so this is a superwide type camera, not a round image type (I can always use a lens hood that's too small to get round images if I want them)
For now, I will aim the camera using the ground glass, but will probably make some kind of simple viewfinder. The B&J back has a pop out shade, which is handy.
Bill
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: James Young <jamiehy@globaldialog.com>
Reply-to: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 14:49:56 -0800
>After traveling through the Michigan upper peninsula I've gotten
>inspired to make a wide angle round image camera kind of like the
>hobo but using a 8x10 (178mm) B&L protar 5 lense to get a 18-20"
>circle on 20x24 film. My plan is to make a fixed focus camera quickly
>out of plywood so I can start using the camera soon.
> Since I'm thinking of going for the old time look (and it's much
>cheaper) I want to shoot something like Aristo ortho lith film and
>process it for continuous tones to print with salt, vandyke or pop
>paper. I know ortho won't look exactly like Blue sensitive materials,
>which is ok.
>Where would I find info on how to process for this use?
>Thanks! Jamie Young in Madison, WI
>
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