From: Phillip Murphy (pmurf@bellsouth.net)
Date: 04/05/03-05:19:06 PM Z
Hello Agustin,
I would agree that the polish is fifty per cent of the labor when
achieving the finest result in "straight" photography from
a Daguerreotype plate. Many current workers are abandoning
this fidelity in favor of a more primitive look in their work.
The style is very reminiscent of the Daguerreotypy that was done
between 1836 and 1841 before it became commercialized.
When you say "brushes", are you referring
to buffs or polishing wheels? If you're polishing on a wheel, the
slowest speeds are best. Typical buffing wheels that are converted
from grinders have too great of RPMs. This causes "orange peel"
of the metal and imbeds particles of rouge into the soft silver surface
that end up as black specks in your image. If you use a wheel, find
one that is designed for the fine grinding of tools. They run at slow
speeds as not to take the temper from the tool steel.
Your teacher is correct regarding the use of a very clean final hand buffing.
(btw, who might your teacher be?)
Special unbleached cotton velvets can be found in upholstery fabric stores.
Also, silk velvet works very well for a final buff material.
If you are unopposed to using animal products in your work, the softest
material (as well as the original material) for polishing buffs is deer skin.
In particular, deer skin that has been brain tanned. This is very hard to
find these days. Check eBay, I see it there occasionally.
Regarding a "Iodide/Bromide" formula, I'm not sure exactly what you
are referring to. The halogens are what make the Daguerreotype
sensitive to light and there are numerous ways to not only combine them
but also to sensitize the plate with them. It is an Alchemical art to say
the very least. Read as much as you can from as many sources as you
can and experiment continuously. Halogens are very poisonous so be
sure that you read the MSDS on your chemicals and apply caution.
Start with the resources at http://www.daguerre.org
The site is rarely maintained since Gary Ewer passed the torch, however,
as a static site it still has many good pointers.
-Phillip
Agustin wrote:
> Thank you everyone for your income on Mercury and Bequerel development of
> Daguerreotypes.
> Phillip, from what I´ve experienced, the most important part of the process
> is the polish of the plate. To get a pure clear image, with good contrast
> and definition. The polishing times I´ ve been using are arround 30 min to 1
> hour with different "brushes" with 6x6cm plates. And the last process is
> what my teacher calls "buffing", with a special neutral PH cotton.
> >From what I´ve seen of modern dags, I can say that I notice a lack of good
> polishing of the plate.
> Christopher, your work is impresive!.
> One last question. Did anyone try the Iodide/Bromide formula?. I´ve read a
> short note about it, but I´d like a more detailed description of the
> process. Any Bibliography/website you would recomend?
> Thanks a lot.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Agustin Barrutia.
>
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