From: Scott Wainer (smwbmp@starpower.net)
Date: 02/18/03-04:46:38 PM Z
Hi all,
Just read a copy of "The Kallitype Process" from the Photo-Minature No. 47,
while snowed in with 22" for 3 days, and had a few questions for those of
you who are kallitypists.
(see bottom of page for the original formula)
The first question is has anyone tried the 4 part sensitizer laid out in the
article? Up to this point I have been using the simple formula given in
Christopher James' book with decent results; 1 part 20% Ferric Oxalate to 1
part 10% silver Nitrate. Since the article was written, in 1903, I would
assume the quality of chemistry and paper has steadly increased to the point
of not needing some of the chemicals required to obtain decent or exhibition
quality prints.
Assuming the formula listed in the article would increase the quality of
todays prints, how would you convert the formula to todays usage? In
particular, Part A which calls for 1oz Ferric Oxalate, 5oz distilled water,
and 48 grains gum arabic. I can handle the conversions for the first 2 by
converting them to grams and milliliters; but how do you convert grains when
using liquid gum arabic? Also Part B calls for 1/2oz Ferric Oxalate and
Potassium [K3Fe2(C204)3] which I assume would be Ferric Potassium Oxalate.
Is that liquid or dry measurement? Where could I obtain it or can it be
readily made onsite?
Part C of the sensitizer calls for the use Oxalic Acid and "stronger ammonia
(880)", how does this solution effect the sensitizer?
In Part D, the article calls for the use of a 6% Potassium (Bi)Dichromate
solution. It has always been my understanding that the addition of
dichromate causes an increase in contrast and a reduction in printing speed.
Most of my negatives give a slightly contrasty print, using the James
formula, that caused the shadows to go slightly dark and are brought out in
in a pre-fix toning bath. Would the inclusion of 4 drops of the dichromate
solution in 433ml (per my conversion of the sensitizer solution in the
article) of sensitizer cause even greater contrast?
I also read that for the most part, toning is done after the print has been
fixed. I have always toned before fixing; is there any difference other than
color in toning before the fix versus afterwards?
Thanks for the help,
Scott Wainer
smwbmp@starpower.net
***********************************************
Photo-Minature No. 47 Kallitype Formula
Part A
Ferric Oxalate 1 oz
Distilled Water 5 oz
Gum Arabic (picked) 48 grains
Part B
Ferric Oxalate and Potassium [K3Fe2(C204)3] 1/2 oz
Distilled Water 8
oz
Part C
Oxalic Acid 1/2 oz
Distilled Water 4 oz
stronger ammonia (Ammonia Liq. 880) 100 minims
Part D
Bichromate of Potassium 120 grains
Distilled Water 4 oz
Sensitizer for average negatives
Part A 1 oz
Part B 1/2 oz
Part C 30 minims
Part D 4 drops
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