From: Scott Wainer (smwbmp@starpower.net)
Date: 02/24/03-04:22:49 PM Z
Re: Kallitypes - Photo-Minature 47Thank you both Terry and Sandy,
I did send my post twice (each slightly different in content); thinking that the first may not have been recieved by members of the list. I, myself, have missed some of the posts to the list and had to view them on the live mirror archive.
Terry wrote:
48 Grains = 3.1104 Grams and 5 ounce [US, liquid] = 147.868 ml
Now you need to know how many grams per ml your liquid gum arabic has and you should be able to calculate how much you will need.
As for the conversions, I will have to ask Photographer's Formulary about the concentration of their gum arabic as that is what I use. I found a conversion from grains to grams but there was no mention of the liquid part. How did you arrive at that?
Sandy wrote:
Regarding the formula from Photo-Minature, I have not experimented with the formula in the article but I doubt very much that you will get any better results with it than with the formula given by James, which is similar to one recommended by Dick Stevens, Russ Young, Richard Farber, et al. There was a huge about of experimentation with kallitype in the early part of the century but to my way of thinking most of the formulas are simply variations that with proper working conditions all lead to the same result.
My thought exactly; though for different reasons. I was looking at the quality of the material now vs. the time the article was written.
Sandy wrote:
Stevens did a lot of experimentation with additives such as gum arabic in an attempt to keep more of the sensitizer at or near the surface of the paper to improve apparent sharpness, but in practice getting a smooth coating with any amount of colloid added to the sensitizer is extremely difficult.
This is interesting; while waiting to see if there was a response to my post I tried adding gum arabic to the sensitizer - 4 drops per 5 ml. I got a much smoother and even coating - almost velvety - on Stonehenge and Coventry Rag than without the addition. I also got a much richer dark-chocolate color with a double strength GP-1 gold toning bath prior to fixing. My method is to tape the paper by 2 corners to a sheet of glass, apply the sensitizer to the top edge with a syringe, and to spread with a rod until the gloss is gone. I then dry the front and back with a hairdryer on the cool setting.
Sandy wrote:
As for toning, prints toned before fixing will be richer and take on more of the color of the toning agent than if toned after fixing. At least that has been my experience with gold and platinum toning. Also, toning before fixing with these agents cuts down dramatically on bleaching of the image in the fixing bath(s).
I agree whole-heartedly about the richness and color of pre-fix toning. I did notice quite a bit of bleaching of the print in the fix without prior toning. Speaking of toning, did you get my short post about sepia toning kallitypes? Any thoughts (wish I had a site up so you can view the test prints)? I will be trying it again in the next few days with prints made with the addition of gum arabic to the sensitizer and can post the results for you and the list.
Thanks for the help,
Scott Wainer
smwbmp@starpower.net
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