From: Judy Seigel (jseigel@panix.com)
Date: 02/24/03-08:13:56 PM Z
On Mon, 24 Feb 2003, Christina Z. Anderson wrote:
> ... spray starch as per
> Hirsch (I heard it yellows) and cannot believe that Livick actually brushes
> his sizing on, too. That'd save a heck of a lot of time.
Chris, I rarely bet less than a million dollars, but reading Hirsch's
comments about gum printing, I'd bet he never made a gum print -- or let's
say he should have done some research first. For instance, he says you
can't get a true blue with gum because the dichromate stains it, & that
"gum does not deliver a realistic color balance" (whatever that's supposed
to mean). And so forth. Of course even maven gum printers disagree -- for
instance Julian Smart says he "previsualizes" gum -- I tend to work ad
hoc, letting the process/results guide me. That's probably as much
personality as the medium-- I find gum more generous when I let in the
surprises.
But if you've got Livick's book -- doesn't he say he sprays on the
emulsion? That's my sort of vague but sort of recollection.
Judy
>
> > Greetings from Big Wonderful Wyoming,
> > Most of the pigments I use are bought in powder form. Carbon Black from
> > Photographers Formulary is a favorite. Ivory or Bone Black is weaker and
> > warmer, but works well. I use the earth pigments a lot, Umbers and
> Siennas,
> > Indian Red, etc... They're an excellent choice for any gum printer.
> > Quinacridone is beautiful but weak, as you've noted. Cadmium reds and
> > yellows are effective but tend to be more opaque. Phthalocyanine blue and
> > green are excellent - great covering power and intense color. I've also
> had
> > great results with Cobalt blue (cobalt aluminate). I've never used white.
>
>
>
>
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