From: Alan Bucknam (alan@notchcode.com)
Date: 01/09/03-11:42:07 AM Z
Bob,
I've used Rabbit Skin Glue with some success in sizing for albumen in
the past. It's readily available and reasonably easy to use.
Don't bother with using buffers in your sizing; using 100% cotton
rag-based paper will ensure an acid-free paper base and great
archivability.
Alan Bucknam
On Thursday, January 9, 2003, at 09:45 AM, Bob Kiss wrote:
> DEAR TOM AND ALL,
> Tom, thanks for info.
> Has anyone else had any experience sizing hand made paper for Alt
> and
> especially Albumen?
> CHEERS!
> BOB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Ferguson" <tomf2468@pipeline.com>
> To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 1:42 PM
> Subject: Re: SIZE FOR ALBUMENS ON HAND MADE PAPER
>
>
>> My handmade paper experience is limited (it is a very enjoyable
>> process)
>> and I've never printed an albumen....... so do take the rest of my
>> comments with those disclaimers in mind.
>>
>> When I was making paper and printing palladium and cyanotype on it...
>> I
>> never could get a normal/photographic "surface size" to work. Hand
>> made
>> paper is basically waterleaf (VERY absorbant). With a gelatin or
>> starch
>> surface size the paper as still too absorbant and uneven.
>>
>> I had to use an internal size during the papermaking process. My best
>> results were with analkylketene dimer (see here:
>> http://twinrocker.com/sadditv2.html ). A couple notes: It take two
>> weeks
>> to "set" (become hard) in normal room temperature. Keep the liquid
>> refrigerated, in liquid form it only lasts about 1/2 year before going
>> bad (or so I'm told, I used mine up before then). Decades later these
>> sized papers look great, and I'm told this is a common ingredient in
>> many if not most high quality papers.
>>
>> You are able to use a "surface size" (gelatin, starch, etc) on a paper
>> that has internal size if your process needs it.
>>
>> Another "common ingredient" in papers is "calcium carbonate" (some
>> papermakers call it limestone or buffer). This is added to keep the
>> paper non acid and keep "lignin" (spelling??) damage from occurring.
>> Both platinum and cyanotype have serious problems with this chemical
>> (I
>> have no info on how albumen would react). I've always assumed that the
>> amount of this additive is the primary reason why some papers work
>> well
>> for platinum and others are terrible.
>>
>> I found pure banana leaf ( papermakers call it abaca) to be too
>> textured
>> for my use. That could have been my fault (skill and/or equipment). I
>> had far better results with a mix of banana and cotton. Let us know
>> how
>> Barbados banana works, papermakers (like most art types) can be quite
>> the snobs. The "official word" is that only abaca from the Philippines
>> is high quality?? Abaca is naturally quite brown, if you want a white
>> wheet you need to use "bleached Abaca". I don't know how that is
>> done, I
>> simply bought it that way.
>>
>> Hope all that helps.
>>
>> On Sunday, January 5, 2003, at 05:55 AM, Bob Kiss wrote:
>>
>>> DEAR ALL,
>>> I am hoping to make albumen prints on paper made by hand here in
>>> Barbados using local fibers; perhaps banana or bread fruit leaf
>>> stalk or
>>> locally grown cotton. I have a professional paper maker who knows
>>> all
>>> about
>>> the making but she asked me what sizing would be best for my
>>> particular
>>> process...albumen.
>>> Please let me know if any of you have any experience making
>>> albumen
>>> prints on hand made paper and what size you recommend.
>>> NEW YEAR'S CHEERS FROM BARBADOS!
>>> BOB
>>>
>>> Please check out my website:
>>> www.bobkiss.com
>>>
>>>
>> --------------
>> Tom Ferguson
>> http://www.ferguson-photo-design.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
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