From: Loris Medici (lorism@tnn.net)
Date: 07/03/03-02:58:11 AM Z
Hi Sam, thanks for your reply.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: stwang1@bellsouth.net [mailto:stwang1@bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 6:13 PM
> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> Subject: Re: A newcomer into the alt. process world...
>
> PAPER: any paper that can withstand soaking can be used. Some
> cheap papers actually print better
> than "art" papers. So I would test almost any paper you can
> lay your hands on, just to see what
> happens.
That's very logical; since cyanotypes are inexpensive to produce (I
purchased "bulk" chemicals to make 1.25lt of each part - in other words:
2.5lt of mixed sensitizer!!! - just for US$ 17) I can experiment as much
as I want.
BTW, how much formalin should I add to a lt. of ferric ammonium citrate
solution in order to prevent mould built?
> NEGATIVES: with digital negatives being so easy and good, you
> may not want to spend time
> enlarging your negatives. Wait till you have the equipment to
I have Dan Burkholder's book on this subject and also print digitally
using pigmented "Piezotone" brand quadtone inks. I don't have the
possibility of imagesetter output (this is a very expensive option in
Istanbul) and will try digital negatives with the Piezotones. But I'm
not much hopeful; I don't have access to Pictorico OHP film (the best
transparency option for pigmented inks - do you know any other?) and I
seriously doubt that it can reach enough density (the best Dmax. I had
from these inks was 1.53) on glossy transparency media. AFAIK, these are
very delicate too - pigment ink smears very quickly on
glossy/transparency. I would like to hear comments, suggestions on this
issue...
> do it digitally. Meanwhile, you may
> want to make yourself 5x7 or 8x10 pinhole cameras in order to
> get negatives large enough for
> cyanotype.
Unfortunately there are no 4x5, 5x7 or 8x10 B&W films present in Turkey.
I had to order my 4x5 films from the U.S. - Pro's use 4x5 transparency
films exclusively here. Therefore, distributors don't stock large format
B&W films.
> And: make certain the coating is really dry before exposure.
> The coating contains photographic
> bleach that can damage your negative if not completely dry.
I have read that some individuals use "mylar" sheets to protect
negatives (we don't have it either) but I plan to use simple acetate
(thinnest I can find). How much this practice will affect print quality?
Will print using the sun - we have plenty of sun down here ;)
> You also may want to do simple "photograms" first, by using
> leaves and other objects as negatives,
> laying them directly on the coated paper, till you get used
> to the process before using your
> precious negatives.
Good suggestion. Thanks.
> Also, when single coat of the chemicals works well enough,
> try giving it a second coat after the
> first coat is dry. Double coating will make the tones much richer.
I have potassium dichromate - will adding some to the sensitizer help
achieving darker - deeper shadows?
> Please let us know how it goes.
Of course, I'm sure I'm going to flood(!) the list with many questions -
as soon as I start.
Thank you again,
Loris.
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