From: Loris Medici (lorism@tnn.net)
Date: 07/03/03-03:43:05 AM Z
Hi Devra, thanks for your answer.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Devra Goldberg [mailto:smspoll@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 6:19 PM
> To: photo
> Subject: Re: A newcomer into the alt. process world...
>
>
> dear loris,
>
> i think cyanotypes are a great start! they're
> relatively easy to make and they are so beautiful. i
> still feel a little rush when i have a fresh cyanotype
> to play with.
Don't want to make statements so soon but I think I will not make any
alt. process prints other than cyanotypes in the future. Maybe albumen
prints!? (but this is a very long term plan). I must admit that like
much the prussian-blue color of the cyanotypes.
> please let us know how your toning comes out. i,
> also, have christopher james' book (i love it) and i'm
> considering doing some toning in the next few weeks.
I will, please share also your experiences on toning. I think I'm going
to try tannic acid and tea toning. Will post samples as soon as I manage
to do one.
> foam brushes are wooden handles with bits of foam on
> the end of them. you can use these, although they
> tend to soak up a bit of the chemical, i've found them
> to do it less than the hake brush (although the hake
> brushes leave lovely brush strokes and coats more
> evenly). i've also used standard household painting
> brushes that i got at the art supply store really
> cheap and had, again, lovely brush marks, so i'd
> recommend one of these options over the foam brush
> since the brush mark is, for me at least, a hallmark
> of the cyanotype process.
I agree, that's why I want to stay away of coating rods... Being able to
use ordinary painting brushes is nice.
> as for paper, i also go with the "feel test"--if it
I see that it's a matter of experience choosing the right paper. Will
try to educate me on the paper issue. Does cyanotypes need sizing (will
not use in conjunction with other processes like van dyke, gum
dichromate...)?
> feels good to me, i use it! i've started avoiding
> completely smooth papers (i.e. strathmore drawing),
> though, as the end result looks a bit flat.
What is the best way to dry coated papers?
Thanks again,
Loris.
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