From: Loris Medici (lorism@tnn.net)
Date: 07/21/03-07:07:35 AM Z
Digital negative related questions (other topics below):
Hello Dan (and others),
It came out I was doing it wrong (I was using the color table method -
not colorize - and the wrong color 0 71 71 0 not 0 55 55 0)... Anyway, I
tried to make new digital negatives (exactly as described in the 12th
chapter of your book) but the ink puddled on dense parts of the negative
(please note that media was Epson Transparency) all I got was a ruined
negastive. I used the same printer driver settings as described in your
site (photo paper, 2880dpi, Gamma 1.8, all color sliders -25).
Unfortunately this setting is no good for Epson Transparency media (what
if I choose Glossy Film? Which paper type except for Inkjet
Transparencies lays the least amnt. of ink?) Is there any other way of
using Epson transparency media?
Fortunately, I found a place to order Pictorico OHP that ships
internationally (BHPhoto). So I will have more suitable material for
digital negatives soon. My question regarding Pictorico OHP is:
I can use both colorized spectral density negative method (Epson Stylus
Photo 890) or I can use Cone's PiezographyBW Piezotone inks (Epson
Stylus Color 1160). As the 890 uses dye inks, I feel that it would be a
better candidate for the transparency media. In the other hand, you
(Dan) said you have got very nice prints using your 1160 and
PiezographyBW inks. Can Pictorico OHP effectively absorb pigmented
PiezographyBW inks or should one definitely use some sort of varnish (or
whatever spray) in order to prevent smudging/smearing? If you were in my
place, which way you would turn towards?
Another question regarding 1160 + PiezographyBW inks combo is: What is
the printing workflow for that combo? Is it 1) Apply Curve, 2) Invert,
3) Print or shoud I swap 1 and 2? BTW, I don't print via Piezography
export utility (because of extreme microbanding is shows with my
printer) but rather use a partitioned RGB workflow by Jeff Randall. The
prints I get using this workflow are wonderful - I assume that I will
get good negatives using this way. What do you think?
Non digital negative related questions:
I get very grainy prints with poor definition and completely washed out
highlights. What may be the problem?
Sensitizer? (Equal parts of classic formula. Was mixed as follows:
Solution A = 200gr green ferric ammonium citrate + water to make 1lt +
10 drops of Formalin, Solution B = 80gr potassium ferricyanide + water
to make 1lt)
Paper? (I use Canson's watercolor paper. Grain due to flaking? What can
I do to decrease surface texture? I think most of the definition
problems are related to surface texture? Do you know anything about the
chemical properties of this paper?)
Coating technique? (I get sensitizer on the brush and apply to the paper
- I don't pour sensitizer to the paper and spread it - it's more like
paint the paper with the sensitizer. I feel that I'm using more than
needed sensitizer... what are the symptoms of more than enough coating?)
Exposure? (I just started to use a hinged back contact printing frame -
I stop exposing as soon as I see shadows - unexposed part of the
negative - start to solarize - and get underexposed prints. How long
should I wait after the shadows solarize?)
Washing water? (I use tap water, I don't know if the water is alkali or
not? What if I use a vinegar + water solution?)
Thanks in advance,
Loris.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: FDanB@aol.com [mailto:FDanB@aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 6:56 PM
> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> Subject: RE: Another Try at Cyano (digital neg)
>
>
>
> If memory serves, the 890 is the smaller sister to the 1280.
> If so, it
> makes sense that you use 1280 curves and such for your 890. Since you
> have trouble getting Pictorico OHP in Turkey, using a
> spectral density
> negative with the Epson transparency film is your best bet.
> One of the
> primary reason we make negatives with a red-orange color is
> to achieve
> the desired densities without flooding the film with too much ink.
>
> For many people, the platinum curves and colorizing schemes
> work well for
> cyanotype.
>
> For the 1280 curves and printer settings, go to the following
> and click
> New Info.
>
> Good luck with your cyanotype!
>
> Dan
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