Re: Many cyanotype questions...

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From: Ian Greant (ian@51north.com)
Date: 07/21/03-10:13:31 AM Z


Hi Loris,

Sorry to hear you are having some trouble.. That does seem to be a
universal. I went through a lot of paper before I got a good print.

If your highlights are washed out then it sounds like underexposure.
Typically my method of gauging exposure is when the highlights are starting
to block up (turn dark) I figure you can always bleach a print down but
you can't increase it (unless you're willing to print over your first
layer.. I've made a couple nice gum over cyan prints that way)

Grain: If your negative isn't grainy then it must be your paper, try
another kind. Paper is cheap. :) I'm not familiar with Canson's paper, sorry.

That's about all I can answer right now,

Good luck!
Ian

>I get very grainy prints with poor definition and completely washed out
>highlights. What may be the problem?
>
>Sensitizer? (Equal parts of classic formula. Was mixed as follows:
>Solution A = 200gr green ferric ammonium citrate + water to make 1lt +
>10 drops of Formalin, Solution B = 80gr potassium ferricyanide + water
>to make 1lt)
>
>Paper? (I use Canson's watercolor paper. Grain due to flaking? What can
>I do to decrease surface texture? I think most of the definition
>problems are related to surface texture? Do you know anything about the
>chemical properties of this paper?)
>
>Coating technique? (I get sensitizer on the brush and apply to the paper
>- I don't pour sensitizer to the paper and spread it - it's more like
>paint the paper with the sensitizer. I feel that I'm using more than
>needed sensitizer... what are the symptoms of more than enough coating?)
>
>Exposure? (I just started to use a hinged back contact printing frame -
>I stop exposing as soon as I see shadows - unexposed part of the
>negative - start to solarize - and get underexposed prints. How long
>should I wait after the shadows solarize?)
>
>Washing water? (I use tap water, I don't know if the water is alkali or
>not? What if I use a vinegar + water solution?)
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Loris.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: FDanB@aol.com [mailto:FDanB@aol.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 6:56 PM
> > To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> > Subject: RE: Another Try at Cyano (digital neg)
> >
> >
> >
> > If memory serves, the 890 is the smaller sister to the 1280.
> > If so, it
> > makes sense that you use 1280 curves and such for your 890. Since you
> > have trouble getting Pictorico OHP in Turkey, using a
> > spectral density
> > negative with the Epson transparency film is your best bet.
> > One of the
> > primary reason we make negatives with a red-orange color is
> > to achieve
> > the desired densities without flooding the film with too much ink.
> >
> > For many people, the platinum curves and colorizing schemes
> > work well for
> > cyanotype.
> >
> > For the 1280 curves and printer settings, go to the following
> > and click
> > New Info.
> >
> > Good luck with your cyanotype!
> >
> > Dan


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