From: Christina Z. Anderson (zphoto@montana.net)
Date: 07/30/03-01:47:40 PM Z
Clarification: by "image is too warm", below, I do not mean temperature,
but warm *toned*--i.e. yellow.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christina Z. Anderson" <zphoto@montana.net>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: help improve white areas on polaroid transfers
> Hi Andrej,
> If using a daylab to print your images, don't use yellow and magenta
to
> color balance. You may try to dial in cyan to lean the color balance
> towards cool, unless the image is already cyan. You can also do a final
> clear in a bath of 1 part vinegar to 4 parts water, preferably when the
> image has dried first so you don't get bubbling or bleeding of
colors--this
> will brighten the colors up for you. Then rinse for 5 minutes after.
> However, all that said, the process does print warmer whites and lower
> saturation than the original. OH, the time that you separate the
developing
> pod, too, will have a great effect on color balance. If your image is too
> warm you may have separated too soon or too late--shoot for 15-30 seconds,
> separate, and this in a normal temperature room (70 degrees).
> Chris
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andrej Hocevar" <ah@siol.net>
> To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 1:58 PM
> Subject: help improve white areas on polaroid transfers
>
>
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > is there a general rule for making white areas really appear white
> > on the final transfered image instead of brown or grey? It is quite
> > some time since the last time I've tried it, so I don't recall all
> > the details that might be crucial. If this isn't a normal beginner's
> > mistake, please tell me which information I must supply to get more
> > help. I'll really appreciate it.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > andrej
> >
> > --
> > echo ${girl_name} > /etc/dumpdates
>
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