Re: Rockland Halo Chrome

On Tue, 17 Feb 2004, Jack Fulton wrote:

> Well, the first thought is to check "The World Journal of Post-Factory
> Photography" (WJP-FP), issues #3 & 6.

thanks Jack -- I'd figured out the formula for halochrome (originally
published in a Swedish magazine of about 1941, dicovered in NY Public
Library, only they called it something else, maybe "specular silver.")
Having enough of the chemicals for about the cost of one "kit" to make the
formula ad infinitim, I tried all the variations I could think of.. For
instance, different acids in the bleach will give different tones
-- and after-toning with for instance blue toner will often give glorious
color-- but sometimes fades.

The color of the plating out is a factor (I found) of the paper you're
doing it on-- and/or how far back you bleach the original. I found the
print usually had more punch if some black was left in the shadows... but
each paper and process combo may have its own effects...

However... there really is no reason to fix. Just another operation and
possible pitfall... That is, if you're bleaching & redeveloping a finished
print, rather than putting an unfixed print in the plating solution...
They tell you to fix in case you have excess silver (it does intensify) so
there won't be changes, but that's just them being overthetop kosher.
And obviously, it's safest to airdry, face up.

> Also, purchase a respirator with a cartridge which will filter out the
> ammonia. Mine was bought through Grainger and is a North Z550030M. I
> used the cartridge 75SC. If you are going to use it solely for ammonia,
> you should purchase a cartridge specialized just for ammonia. The 75SC
> cartridge is for mixed vapors.

Oh phooey... nothing wrong with a little ammonia... those cartidges will
kill you -- you can't see where you're going, will walk into a wall or
down a hole.

> Rapid fix ought not be used.
> The time it takes to 'plate' the image varies partly due to temperature
> and the amount of plating to be done.
> Various manufacturers create different paper emulsions and these cause
> the image to be plated either gold or silver.
> I believe the Mitsubishi paper is the only one to go silver. The others
> go gold.

I was doing this with my old Brovira #6... which went silver. which was
actually boring after a while. But I think a pre-wash with something can
also affect the final color. It was 20 years ago, and that file is rusted
shut... but I think a very weak bichromate bleach for about 20 seconds
before the copper bleach... if anyone's interested I'll try to find it...
In any event, there are many marvelous games to play if you're not paying
$16 for 75 cents worth of chemical.) And Chris Osinski did some very fine
variations with it on Ilford Multigrade, in Issue #7.

Judy

> RC papers work the best.
> Do not use the solution more than once.
> I use more than recommended.
> Constant agitation is essential.
> Don't squeegee.
> I allow them to air dry.
>
> Jack Fulton
>
Received on Tue Feb 17 23:15:09 2004