Re: Rancid oil (Re: Ultrafine Clear Film and Epson 2200

On Sat, 23 Oct 2004, Katharine Thayer wrote:

Re oiling paper:

> ... It
> sounds like a lot of work, but it takes only a few minutes and when
> you're done you have a negative that will last for a long time without
> re-oiling and without changing over time. ...
>
> .... Off
> the top of my head now, I'd say that I wouldn't want to use raw beeswax
> because IME it colors paper tan/brown, and I would think that might
> affect the tonal relationships within the print. And I've only seen
> refined beeswax in crystalline form, not in a bar like raw beeswax or
> paraffin which is a much easier form to use for waxing (BTW, I have
> found that an electric griddle is perfect for warming paper for waxing;

I don't remember where I got it (probably an art supply store for
encaustic) but I have a block of pure solid white beeswax the size of a
pound of butter, and the beeswaxed paper was in fact whiter than the oiled
paper as the oil IME imparts a slight cast.

Also, guaranteed, our method of waxing (learned BTW about 1982 at Lacock
Abbey at a Calotype workshop, courtesy, if memory serves of Richard
Morris) is simplicity itself. No hot griddles or stove tops, only a
regular clothes iron, a flat surface and a pad of newspaper covered with a
sheet of clean white paper (as described in P-F #3, I think it was). Also
a soft paper towel.

Iron a section of the paper until it's hot, rub with the bar which will
melt into the paper, which will cool fairly quickly so only a few strokes
will melt, wipe any excess with the paper towel, then iron more, rub more,
& repeat until the entire paper whatever size is transparentized, maybe
run the iron over all again in case any thick spots remain (much less
likely with beeswax than paraffin) and wipe quickly with the paper towel.
Finis.

J.
Received on Sat Oct 23 11:07:10 2004