RE: Blue-Black Cyanotype & Luster

Addition of few drops of 40% citric acid into the coating solution makes
you print Cyanotype 2 on otherwise non-usable surfaces/papers. That way
I managed to make prints on silk, cotton, or papers which turned the
coating solution to blue in just 30 secs. Of course you have to
calibrate according to it because the contrast of the solution changes
when you add citric acid.

Regards,
Loris.

-----Original Message-----
From: D. Mark Andrews [mailto:mark@dragonbones.com]
Sent: 04 Ekim 2005 Salı 16:54
To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Subject: RE: Blue-Black Cyanotype & Luster

...

The Polyshield Gloss sounds fascinating. I may have to get a sample and
give it a go.

I only have potentially inflammatory things to say about the New
Cyanotype solution so let me be nice and simply say that I would rather
lose a limb then use it again. I like being able to pull nearly any
piece of paper off the shelf and turn it into a cyanotype...any piece of
cloth, metal, wood, leather, etc. for that matter. I spent over 3 weeks
of precious work time trying to find the right paper, manipulate it to
the right pH with that formula--nonsense I say :-)

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: Loris Medici [mailto:loris_medici@mynet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 12:58 AM
To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Subject: RE: Blue-Black Cyanotype & Luster

#1: Sorry, I know nothing about black toning Cyanotypes.

#2: There are people making inkjet prints on fine-art paper (like
Somerset Velvet) using 3rd party pigmented inks, and they use
polyurethane wood finish such as "Hydrocote Polyshield Gloss" to extend
the Dmax of their prints from 1.6 to 2.1. The polyurethane is applied on
paper using a #30 meyer rod (#30 means that the coating thickness will
be around 30mils = 0.03" ~= 0.76mm). This would probably work for
alt-process prints too.

You get good Dmax with "single coated" classic Cyanotype!? Or do you
double coat? Have you tried New Cyanotype?

Regards,
Loris.
Received on Tue Oct 4 08:01:41 2005