Re: making regular photo paper POP

From: Christina Z. Anderson ^lt;zphoto@montana.net>
Date: 09/02/05-09:18:49 AM Z
Message-id: <002e01c5afd1$a409f9b0$576992d8@e5m4i>

Verrrry cool...another thing for me to try.

The colors in Burchfield's work appear all over, under, even, the densest
part of the flower "neg" where there can be a brilliant green, yellows,
pinks, reds, you name it!

The book is worth checking out at a Barnes and Noble...
Chris

> So interesting that it's Burchfield. He did a related process sometime I
> think in the 1970s which I found in a book and used a lot... What you
> might call a stop bath toner. That is,if your negative is REALLY
> contrasty, you can expose/develop the available tones , then give a very
> quick weak stop (possibly, I seem to recall, a well-used stop), then take
> a 100-watt tungsten bulb and REALLY burn in the missing highlights (I was
> doing this on the old Brovira #5, sometimes so hard that the "Mazda" on
> the bulb imprinted on the paper). The result was tones in many beautiful
> colors, as described in those photograms -- BUT, the tendency with most
> papers was for most of the colors to fade a lot on fixing.
>
> It's possible the alkaline fixer described works better (though I was told
> it should be *acid* -- so go figure). I also assume different papers are
> different. I found that to keep a strong pink, or even a greyish pink, I
> had to have REALLY STRONG pink to start (with the Brovira most other color
> was lost). Since this method also uses chemical developer, I think that
> could be another variable.
>
> The tone of course appeared mostly in sky areas, which were the "bullet
> proof" parts of the negative. I'd guess the tones in the photograms appear
> around the silhouettes of the shapes???
> Judy
Received on Fri Sep 2 13:28:37 2005

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