RE: update on lumen prints

ok,ok something new to report on the lumen/lumin prints...

after a week or so of dark storage I fixed one of those prints from
the previous link and the results are promising

Fixing Steps:
- a short tap-water presoak
- a 1% sodium thiosulphate bath for one minute with agitation
- five miute wash

when the print first came out of the fix, it had lost most of the
reddish hues, deep yellow hues replaced them. BUT upon drying the
reddish color is returning -- only in areas that were previously more
bluish, (mainly the background areas). this mirrors many of
Burchfields images 'look.'

I'm trying a longer, but not stronger, fix bath and will have a print
to checkout in a few hours. I'll try to get this posted if I have time

still it is a step towards more color... yippee

George, if you get a chance to tone before fixing I'd like to know the
results.

later

-Darryl

-----Original Message-----
From: George L Smyth [mailto:glsmyth@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thu 9/15/2005 12:13 PM
To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Subject: Re: update on lumen prints
 
Christina -

Thanks for the information. I think that this process is all over the
place.
Many of mine retain some color following fix, but not enough to be
interesting.

In a previous message I mentioned that I tried 10% sodium (as opposed
to
ammonium) thiosulfate and within 10 seconds most of the color had been
lost, so
I tossed it into the wash. I diluted the fix to 1% and fixed for
several more
minutes without seeing a change (the fixing effect was probably doing
nothing).
 I placed the prints in the wash and went on to something else in the
house.
About 5 hours later I remembered that I still had prints in the wash.
When I
pulle dthem out they were primarily white, which was a new one.

I did a quick 30 minute exposure yesterday under my lights so that I
would have
something to show a group of people, and indeed the colors were not
nearly as
intense as the others I had created (1-6 hour exposures in the sun).
I did not
fix the print so I am going to see what happens if I tone then fix it.

Fortunately, I was given a box of old paper that will offer me the
chance to
try that out.

Cheers -

george

--- "Christina Z. Anderson" <zphoto@montana.net> wrote:

> Hi all,
> My student wrote Burchfield and he was very accessible in answering
her
> questions, and seems a very nice man. More info he shared with her
is this:
>
> He says some of the images are enhanced a bit digitally **only** to
print
> properly for the book, but color was not changed.
>
> The originals are scanned on a high end flatbed scanner and then he
makes
> edition prints on Fuji Crystal Archive/light jet prints.
>
> He said out of date paper comes out differently than the same paper
fresh.
> No paper was better than another, as they are all unique. And his
fave
> paper was made by PAL, long outdated (25 yr) and he has found
nothing like
> it.
>
> He uses regular Kodak fix without hardener and says all images will
bleach
> in the fix, but it'll have minimal effect as long as the image is
strong to
> begin with.
>
> He suggests exposure times of 5 or more hours and he even has done a
94 DAY
> one!
>
> My student is having troubles getting anything more than a flat
image yet,
> and I thought it might be nice to scan it before fixing, as Darryl
did, and
> do that print digitally, as well as having a fixed original of a
different
> color.
>
> I have been having students in Experimental Class this week develop
a print
> fully, stop bath it, and then bring it out into the light (what I
call in
> the workbook "Painting With Light") and watch it change colors.
With that
> process, I have observed some incredible deep reds, which, of
course,
> disappear to dark ambers and such in the fix. However, again, they
would
> make for good scans and prints digitally. Even the fixed amber
color is
> intriguing. I only mention this as another chemical variable to
dry.
> Chris