I coat on plain mylar by simply scuffing the mylar with sandpaper; it
coats easily and smoothly. And for some reason I get a thicker coat
on mylar (I use twice as much emulsion when printing on mylar as when
printing on paper) so this would probably give you a thicker coating
as well.
Katharine
On Apr 6, 2006, at 9:03 AM, Sandy King wrote:
>> On Apr 6, 2006, at 6:31 AM, Marek Matusz wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Sandy,
>>> Try a foam roller for smoothing your gum. it works for a lot of
>>> people on this list, including myself.
>>>
>>
>> Marek, how do you keep from getting a pebbly texture in the gum?
>> Am I just not using a light enough touch, or what?
>>
>>
>>> I like your idea of exposing the print from the back. Glass would
>>> be good testing surface. Maybe if the gum is exposed through the
>>> glass it will not wash off.
>>>
>>
>> I think this may be a good test of the idea, and I hope you'll
>> report your results. I'll try it too when I get back. But one
>> thing that gives me pause about exposing an image on glass from
>> the back, is that you're going to have the thickness of the glass
>> between the negative and the emulsion. It might be an interesting
>> effect, but won't be the same as having the negative in contact
>> with the emulsion.
>>
>> Katharine
>>
>
>
>
> Katharine,
>
> You are right. What Marek suggest would provide a good method to
> test the concept of top down hardening, but the thickness of the
> glass will seriously degrade sharpness.
>
> I would suggest instead of glass overhead transparency material,
> coating the sticky side with the gum emulsion and then exposing
> from the rear. It might be difficult to get a smooth coating on
> this material, but I would imagine that could be worked out. The
> OHP material from Freesstyle would be better than Pictorico for
> this because it passes a much higher percentage of UV light, and is
> very thin.
>
> Sandy
>
>
>
>
>
Received on Thu Apr 6 10:14:42 2006
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