Re: Cyanotype

Hi Sam,
Thank you for your response- I don't have a step tablet and don't know where
to get one here.
If a negative doesn't print out weell, what would a step tablet tell me?
That the steps are not exposed enough?
The stain in my pyro are not much... most of them look brownish and; lately
I have been using Pyro-Cat which is better in that I can use more processes
with the developer.
I have never been able to get a real emerald stain from the Pyro- (I use the
formulary formula) and have hard water with a filter.
Hope to hear from you soon,
Susan
----- Original Message -----
From: "sam wang" <stwang@clemson.edu>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: Cyanotype

>
> On Feb 17, 2006, at 7:56 PM, Susan Huber wrote:
>
> > Hi David,
> > I recently mixed a batch of cyanotype of the green type ( I used the
> > brown
> > type 20 years ago and last year used the 'new'Ware solution which was
> > difficult to mix. The green brushes on greener than the brown and the
> > War'es
> > soluttions did... I mixed the classic ala C. Jamesas per his book
> > which has
> > a lot more Fe.Ammonic and Ferricyanide solution than the 'old' one of
> > the W.
> > Crawford's formula. The prints were very bleached even after 30 minutes
> > under the UV printer. I used the sun last year and did better with the
> > Ware
> > solution. 20 years ago I was on city water- I am on my hard water (well
> > water) and wonder why nothing looks good?
> > I can't afford to waste materials as I have to get them form the
> > States. (I
> > live in Canada).
> > Do you have an idea what is wrong- I do dev. the negatives in Pyro-
> > and 20
> > years ago- I didn't...
> > Thanks, Susan
> > www.susanhuber.com
>
> Susan,
>
> Stain from pyro make the negatives "bullet-proof". Your problem may not
> be chemistry or the water.
>
> I would suggest using a step-tablet instead of a negative and see what
> the result looks like.
>
> Sam
>
Received on Sat Feb 18 08:44:12 2006