In a message dated 17/7/06 1:53:11 pm, mail@loris.medici.name writes:
> I don't see what's over complicated with New Cyanotype. Making New
> Cyanotype
> emulsion is pretty easy and the process of making the emulsion takes not
> more than 10 mins - including heating water - but there's an approx. one
> hour wait for the potassium oxalate crystallization and precipitation -
> which I don't consider a problem at all; I can do many other things during
> that one hour... New Cyanotype achieve something very important to me: high
> dmax with just one coat. New Cyanotype is easier to coat because paper
> absorbs the sensitizer more easily; I never had grainy results with New
> Cyanotype (had grainness with some of my Classic Cyanotypes - I don't have
> problems with coating Classic Cyanotype BTW, New Cyanotype is just easier).
> The only issue that can be mentioned as a problem is: it chooses paper. (But
> it must be noted that this bad attidute can be solved by adding a drop of
> 40% citric acid per ml of sensitizer just before coating). And I must admit
> that I find very very interesting to hear from someone who does gum prints
> (using many manipulation techniques) the words: "New Cyanotype over is
> complicated" - it's a contradiction; I'd suggest that you make inkjet prints
> instead of gums, if you so much dislike "over complicated" processes I mean
> ;)
>
Loris
The 'classic' cyanotype, which is a relatively modern introduction, is simple
cheap and easy. You can get a high d max with one coat if you use the right
negative.
As to the 'new cyanotype' ,as you say yourself, the 'new cyanotype' uses
uncommon chemicals which are more difficult to mix and you have to use special
methods to coat the paper.
The additional complication gives no real advantage.
Loris, have you noticed that the appearance of gum prints tends to be
somewhat different from that of cyanotypes?
It is that difference which justifies the complication.
Ink jet prints, albumen prints, asphaltum prints, bromoils, gravures,
chrysotypes, platinum and salt prints all have different qualities that may be
appropriate to different images.
Maybe you have been concerning yourself too much with the minutiae of
process.
Stop worrying about d max !
As to the cyanotype rex, you can use it with negatives with widely differing
density ranges and it tones to give beautifully subtle colours. it, too,
is simple and easy to do.
You said that you would not bother with it.
Your comment
'New Cyanotype is easier to coat because paper
absorbs the sensitizer more easily; I never had grainy results with New
Cyanotype (had grainness with some of my Classic Cyanotypes - I don't have
problems with coating Classic Cyanotype BTW, New Cyanotype is just easier).'
leads one to believe that you have not got your technique quite right. You
should not be having to think in terms of the differences in the absorbency
of the paper for the two processes. If you are applying the 'classic'
cyanotype correctly, you should not be getting any graininess. Graininess implies that
you are putting too much solution on the paper.
Terry
Received on 07/17/06-08:43:15 AM Z
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