Re: 1st & 2nd Cyanotype

Hey Kyle,

Thanks a lot, that's a lot of info. Regarding PDN, you say you don't have a
densitometer, but I'm guessing you have a scanner then to calibrate. I have
neither for the moment.

I know that my negs will print differently on the different papers, when I
say I don't know what I'm doing, I was exageratting a little. I would like
to be more comfortable with using the brush, guessing exposure, adjusting
exposure, et al before I start using more expensive paper. But I am looking
forward to using the Platine. I still haven't found any COT320 in Toronto
(though I haven't been looking lately).

Thanks again

Gu

On 7/21/06 4:24 PM, "kyle@aprojectneptune.net" <kyle@aprojectneptune.net>
wrote:

>> Yes, this is a digital neg, but it was actually made using Dan's template.
>> I have started to read PDN, but I don't have a scanner or densitometer
>> yet,
>> so I haven't been giving it as much attention as I want to. I feel like
>> there are a million things to know. I'm not complaining.
>
> I use the PDN system having been taught this in Chris Anderson's class.
> It is amazing. I tried Dan's system before and had a lot of trial and
> error before I got anythign halfway decent which was nothing close to my
> first attempts with PDN. The beuty of PDN is the process of tailoring
> your negative to the idiosyncrosies of the paper/chem
> combination/environment you are using. As long as you use the same
> working process and same mixtures of these things in theory the PDN system
> will balence all these things out and give you a beutiful print. So, if
> your paper/chem/humidity combination prints really flat, PDN would adjust
> for this to give you a beutiful print. To me, it seems the natual way of
> doing the negs as I don't have to worry about as many variables and my
> process is standardized all the way through and the results speak for
> themself. (Thanks Chris for teaching me and Mark for thinking up this
> great invention, and I must note I'm a complete amature at all this....).
>
> I've never needed a densitometer when working with PDN...
>
>> Until you asked whether these papers were cold or hot pressed I hadn't
>> bothered to read what those terms meant. I couldn't say whether these are
>> cold/hot. Compared to normal writing paper, it is quite textured - so
>> possibly they are cold pressed. I didn't notice if any fibres were
>> lifting
>> off during clearing, I'll watch for it next time. I've got some Arches
>> Platine, but I'm saving it until I feel like I know what I'm doing.
>
> I never noticed the fibers lifting off either, but they did somehow. Cold
> is rough while hot is smooth. It sounds to me like cold pressed which
> could account for your spots. Platine is a perfect paper and is what I
> use. Please note that your negs will print completely differently when
> you start to use Platine. You might adjust your curve (in photoshop for
> contrast) to get a perfect print on your mystery papers then switch to
> Platine and have to start all over. Again, PDN solves this with it's
> negative calibration process..
>
>> Could you tell me how you are using the washing soda? What brand of soda
>> is
>> this? (I've never used it for anything). How is it mixed? I assume you
>> bathe the print in it? How long?
>
> I mix some washing soda into some water. I don't remember the brand.
> Maybe Chris Anderson can chime in on this. I put some but not too much
> into water. maybe a teaspoon per liter. The stronger you mix the faster
> it'll bleach. I usually will bleach a bunch of prints at once and use one
> I don't like as the test to see what my strengh is, then add more water or
> soda.
>
> When bleaching it goes pretty fast so I will hold both ends of the print
> and dip it into the bath then pull it out so i've got some of the solution
> "cradled" on the print then i move my hands up and down to roll it over
> the whole thing.. it sounds complicated I know and it takes a little
> practice but this is the method which gives me the most control. You
> could just leave it in the bath but I found I would forget or miss the
> pull time, etc and my way is more fun cause i'm doing something instead of
> just watching. When the print is bleached enough wash it.
>
> I also tone my prints with anything rumored to tone. I'm pretty fond of
> chamomile tea. After toning a print is a lot harder to bleach but it is
> possible if you make your bleach solution super strong and leave it in for
> a while. It gives a nice image.
>
> This image was originally very very overexposed (I forgot about it in the
> uv box) then bleached then toned with black tea if I remember correctly.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/homemade_spaceship/116944848/
>
> This image was intentionally overexposed then toned with chamomile tea
> which gives a much more greenish/bluish tone
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/homemade_spaceship/116945041/
>
> I wish I had more examples but i'm pretty lazy about getting anything
> scanned and up on the web.
>
> Hope this helps.
> K.
>
>
Received on 07/21/06-03:16:49 PM Z