Re: gold print

From: Michael Koch-Schulte <mkochsch_at_shaw.ca>
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 19:24:23 -0500
Message-id: <008a01c6926d$8cb17b10$a400a8c0@kitsch>

That makes a huge difference in the way the colours show in the print.

~m

----- Original Message -----
From: "Loris Medici" <mail@loris.medici.name>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 3:35 PM
Subject: RE: gold print

> Hi Marek,
>
> Here's my first print:
> http://www.loris.medici.name/gold/casamilo_chrysotype.jpg
> (please save it to your hd and open with an ICC aware application in order
> to view it correctly)
>
> The emulsion is very high contrast, therefore:
>
> 1) the curve is very flat and extreme = I'm loosing tones
> 2) it shows the printer's weaving pattern very clearly = ugly
>
> On the other hand, since the emulsion is very high contrast the sharpness
is
> incredible. It's the sharpest emulsion I've ever used (I'm comparing it to
> New Cyanotype and Ziatype - and it's definitely better).
>
> I will try it with a high-contrast image with lots of texture too...
>
> Will try to use another color from the CDRP (PDN system), I'm currently
> using R 255, G 0, B 50 with Epson 1290 OEM inks and my SPT is 6 mins. It
> seems that my SPT also is off (I confused the overexposed / bronzed parts
> being dmax in the visual inspection). Will do some more tests in order to
> establish more correct SPT and negative color (this may improve the
curve ->
> leading to better tonality). Will also try to realign my printer's head
just
> in case... Anyway, I think I won't be getting good-to-me results if I
can't
> find a way to lower the emulsion's contrast.
>
> My emulsion consist of:
>
> Part A - Gold:
> 7% KAuCl4
>
> Part B - Iron Sensitizer:
> 14% Ammonium Iron(III) Oxalate
>
> I mix 2A:1B. One should first measure gold, then add sensitizer to it -
> doing the other way will cause precipitation.
>
> 50-55% RH, 22-24C, 1 hour drying time, 20-30 secs hot air drying, exposure
> w/BL tubes.
>
> 1-2% oxalic acid development for 1 min.
>
> 2 x 2 mins. clearing in 1-2% citric acid.
>
> 10mins. rinse in plain tap water (chaning it every minute).
>
> There's definitely a problem in my clearing method; when the
> cleared/rinsed/dryed print is put under the BL tubes for 4-5 minutes, the
> unmasked whites show tone the next day... Just obtained tetrasodium EDTA
and
> will try with that also. In my following trials I will totally eliminate
> oxalic acid (will develop in citric acid) and will try to clear in
> tetrasodium EDTA.
>
> Marek yes! -> I'm very interested in your method. Can you please provide
> info about your method? I would be very glad if you take the trouble to
look
> at your notes.
>
> TIA, greetings from Istanbul,
> Loris.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marek Matusz [mailto:marekmatusz@hotmail.com]
> Sent: 17 Haziran 2006 Cumartesi 19:55
> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> Subject: RE: gold print
>
> Loris,
> The test print is kind of grainy. This might be a beautiful effect for
some
> pictures. You are definitely getting good, nice DMax that gold can produce
> at high humidity. If you are interested I can look up some of my old notes
> on chrysotype. I did a lot of work and came up with a good and simple
> working system that requires no ligand, although I still like Ware's
method.
>
> Meant to write it up for Malin's site, but never managed to do it. Maybe
it
> is time.
> Marek
>
Received on 06/17/06-06:23:10 PM Z

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