Don,
Just a thought about staining with kallitype. Are you mixing the
sodium citrate developer with distilled water? If not, this could be
a cause of staining. I always get staining with both kallitype
(sodium citrate) and palladium (potassium oxalate) if I don't mix
these solutions with distilled water.
Another thing, check the pH of the sodium citrate developer. Some
supplies have an excess of sodium carbonate and measure alkaline. If
you find this to be the case, just add some citric acid to bring the
pH down to about 6 or so.
In my experience staining is primarily a product of the developer. To
avoid I mix the sodium citrate developer with distilled water, use a
regular method of replenishment, and add citric acid as necessary to
keep the pH in the acidic range.
All of the above applies equally to palladium printing.
Sandy
>Sandy,
>
>>
>What is your soaking procedure? And don't you get the above? Never
>know for sure with this paper since it is not as consistent as some
>of the best papers.
>>
>
>Sorry, I hope I didn't confuse you. The 1.5 DMAX I quoted for palladium 1s
>mixture was made on Cot 320. I've never presoaked Stonehenge.
>
>I have presoaked Fabriano Artistico Extra White and BFK for 20 minutes in a
>2% oxalic acid bath and had beautiful results with palladium and kallitype
>(except for the persistent staining with kallitype regardless of paper or
>clearing agent but that's another story.)
>
>>
>I sold the NuArc 26-1k locally to make room for the ULF-28.
>>
>
>Yes I noticed your ad on APUG and was tempted to buy it but right now I just
>have no room for another UV light unit. My wife refuses to let me put one in
>the living room. :) I even passed on an opportunity to purchase an 8x10
>Chromega enlarger sold locally. Originally a $21k enlarger, it sold on e-bay
>for $950.
>
>Don
Received on 05/17/06-10:43:37 AM Z
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