Re: Cyanotype on papyrus
Oh, interesting! I'll report back if I come to any solid conclusion about this.The prints I made back in August never compressed back to their original size. It seems that once the paper's dry, it won't budge.
I wasn't sure if the colors would work, but they really do. And as always, it's even better in person.I really like the cyanotype on papyrus, which is interesting because I usually hate the look of untoned cyanotypes. I think it's because of the complementary color scheme that is created.
I also really like the warmtones of pt/pd (and I would imagine VDB, although I haven't tried it yet) too. I'd like to see some VDBs on the papyrus if you get some successful prints done.
I'll be sure to put some more up if it works. I'll report back either way.
It's a beautiful paper to print on. Definitely something I want to pursue more.
Me too - thanks for inspiring all of this!
I haven't. Ware's formula just seemed easier from the perspective that you don't have to do any last minute mixing. I should probably clarify that to make up the solution originally is no issue - my wife's a chemistry professor, we just used the general chemistry lab and frankly she does most of it.I was wondering about that. The strong blues are very nice. Have you tried the classic cyanotype recipe? It would be interesting to see a comparison.
I do have the chemicals for the classic formula, and my wife is actually going to incorporate cyanotypes into an analytical lab (lots of cool chemistry happening) so I need to run some tests anyway. I'll do some comparisons at some point.
I will say that the hydrochloric acid rinse makes a massive difference in dmax. It's so dilute I just keep a 1M solution around (which is already pretty dilute) and that gives me enough for 10 sessions.