U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: Photopolymer Plate Options

Re: Photopolymer Plate Options



Hey Jon,

I was JUST in the studio with the Krene vinyl, trying to decide how to
get it to work for me, using the Nuarc.... Can you elaborate on how
you attach it?  What the Nuarc has is a rubber gasket around the
perimeter of the vacuum bed.  That's what I need to pull it down
against, firmly enough to let the vacuum develop.  BY the way, I find
the krene wildy static prone.  I have a big vaporizer going in the
studio to cut down on static (and I even have one of those little
desktop fountains sitting near the scanner and printer... I've noticed
a real difference in the amount of lint in my scans since I got it
)... but the Krene is still a shocking (har har {can't afford to pay
Mark for the "other" laugh}), material to use.

All free ideas accepted :o)

susan

www.dalyvoss.com





On 2/13/07, Jon Lybrook <jon@terabear.com> wrote:
Hi Keith,

Yes, I made the switch to Krene and retrofitted the glass in my vacuum
frame with it.  I just taped it down across the bottom of the frame with
gaffer's tape.  I like it because I can not only see, but also feel any
grit that may have gotten trapped either under or on top of the
transparencies.  Harold Kyle, the owner of Box Car Press initially
recommended it and I'm very glad he did!  It needs to get replaced
periodically, but only when pinholes develop.

I agree, vacuum frame doesn't eliminate mottling.  But it sure helps
with general contact problems.

I also use baby powder (though I've recently started trying foot powder
(but don't tell Mark Nelson or I'll get a stinky foot joke followed by
heheheheh)).  I'm trying it because it's supposedly more absorbent (10x
more) than baby powder.  I only use powder with the Pictorico OHP
exposure, however, not the screen, which is made from imagesetter film.
Something in the OHP makes it create little air pockets when coming in
contact with the KM73 plates after the mylar is removed.  I've also
thought about removing the mylar ahead of time and letting the plate
'air out', but haven't tried that yet.  It would be nice to eliminate
the dusting step.  Someone else once recommended using a hair drier on
both.  I tried it for several minutes on both the plate and film, but no
difference.

Jon


taylordow wrote:
> A friend here in Minneapolis is a letterpress printer who uses the
> polymer plates for type and needs to resolve the finest lines and
> serifs. He uses a vacuum frame with Kreen instead of glass. Kreen is a
> plastic that's available from Boxcar and is really the best way to go
> for perfect contact. Jon Lybrook I know asked about this before,
> although I don't know if he made the switch. Jon?
>



--
Susan Daly Voss
www.dalyvoss.com