Re: Photopolymer Plate Options
Hi Chris,
I always use an aquatint screen. I'm better able to judge my
transparencies if I don't have the blacks yanked back to something
drastic, to avoid open bite and avoid using a screen. I've tried it
that way. It works, but I like the transparency to look something close
to what the final print will look like. It helps me evaluate and
troubleshoot better in stages. I can look at a transparency now and
know my blacks are too deep. Not sure how I'd evaluate them if the
curve had 100% pulled back to, say, 50%. It would make for a very tight
curve and a transparency that's hard to judge, I would think.
Standard aquatint screens do introduce a texture up close, however.
This is why I use a finer one (1800 dpi stochastic 80% density). This
looks much smoother, but the finer screen tends to be a double-edged
sword. It can be less forgiving than the standard, grittier aquatint
screen since everything about the image and process (good and bad) is
revealed. You get smoother gradations in tone, but proper contact
becomes even more critical, otherwise you get can patches in those
smoother, lighter grey tones.
Jon
Christina Z. Anderson wrote:
Jon, Nancy, Keith, etc. etc.
I was going to order the KM73s today and noticed after consulting
Boxcar's website that they don't mention using an aquatint screen
exposure. Those of you who use these plates, do you?
They certainly are cheaper than solarplate.
I ordered the book from Australia, too, via Paypal and it was $36 or
so USD....not bad at all.
It is a good website, Boxcar's. I notice that Printight plates are
nylon and said to hold finer detail, the intaglio plates are
PVA/acrylic photopolymer. I also notice that 100 degree washout for
5-10mn is recommended whereas solarplate requires 68-78 for 2 mn. I
don't know what solarplate is made of. I would also love to know the
hardening agent used for all these plates. I think I'll email them...
I've got my curve done for solarplate and technique and all down pat,
so I know it would require a complete new testing process if I switch
plates, but I am intrigued by these brands...especially because of the
remaining problem I have to conquer of mottling and that would require
a vacuum frame and big bucks.
Chris
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jon Lybrook" <jon@terabear.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: Photopolymer Plate Options
Hi Nancy,
For whatever it's worth, both KM73 and KM43 are mentioned on the Toyobo
site here:
http://www.toyobo.co.jp/e/seihin/xk/pad/index.htm
I'm interested in how one can purchase directly from Toyobo. Can you
please post contact info for your source?
Thanks!
Jon
Nancy Diessner wrote:
Mark,
Thanks for asking the question. I've been puzzled by what BoxCar
sells (KM73) since I haven't seen a Printight KM73 on Toyobo's Website.
I get my Printight KM43 plates directly from Toyobo. I'm assuming
the only difference is that the KM73 is thicker than the KM43, and
for me the plates from Toyobo are cheaper. I've found the thickness
of the plates I use just fine, and the blacks deep and rich, but I
think I'll still give the KM73 plates a try and see what the
slightly thicker plate is like.
Here's the comparison:
>From Box Car:
Printight KM73
face relief: .019"
thickness: .029
surface: smooth
hardness 65
A2: $35
>From Toyobo:
Printight KM43
Total Thickness: 0.43mm/0.017"
Relief thickness: 0.20mm/.008
Support base: Steel Plate
Standard Size A2/S-13
I get an educational discount on these plates, which makes them
cheaper than those from Box Car.
Nancy
Jon Lybrook wrote:
Hi Mark,
The "EcoEtch" plate from Box Car Press I mentioned is the Toyobo
(model KM73) plate. "EcoEtch for Photogravure" is their internal
name for it at Box Car Press. I believe it is the same plate Keith
was talking about too. We discussed different sources for the plate,
Box Car Press being the most affordable I've found.
I've read references to other Toyobo plates here too, but I'm not
sure what they are about or how they differ from the KM73. That
plate has come recommended by several people on this list besides me,
and in at least one book I've read.
Thickness of the plate impacts the depth of the dot/holes one can
create in the plate. Presumably the deeper the dot, the more ink one
can wipe in to the plate, and the more ink that gets in the more
comes out, on to your print.
If you're into relief printing, or the effect of open bite, the
thicker the polymer, the deeper the relief lines can be as well. I
probably wouldn't use the KM73 for that kind of work, since the
polymer is relatively thin. I've not had problems getting deep, rich
blacks once the exposure time has been established (and using
Charbonnel Carbon Black ink), however.
Hope that helps clarify some of the confusion.
Cheers,
Jon
D. Mark Andrews wrote:
Was just reading through my stockpile of list emails on this topic
and found
myself a bit confused. It I'm following correctly, I have these
options for
making photopolymer plates that are "developed" using water:
Solarplate (This is the plate I've been toying with)
Dan Welden
Printight (Keith Taylor's recommendation)
Toyobo
Printight DF
Toyobo
EcoEtch KM73 (Jon Lybrook's recommendation)
Boxcar Press
Also, I get that the plate base thickness factors into the depth of
etching,
but not sure how. Can anyone enlighten me?
Mark
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