Re: Gum Application
What volume of sensitized emulsion would you need for an approximately
8 x 10" print with the roller of the type you describe? I have just got
myself a 4" ruler for this size of prints. Thanks. Rajul
On 28-Nov-07, at 3:34 AM, Clay Harmon wrote:
I use a dense foam roller to apply my gum coats, and they are smooth
to the point of being clinical. The 6 inch white rollers found at a
paint store are the ticket, in my opinion. Just put on the coating and
roll back and forth until it has the smooth burnished look that used
to be so hard to get with brushes.
This is another alternative that may be worth investigating.
Clay
On Nov 27, 2007, at 11:33 PM, Judy Seigel wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007, Jacek wrote:
I'm having a tough time applying gum on my paper with brushing. I
keep getting streaks. I've read some people use photoflo, alcohol or
everclear to get a smooth consistent coating, do you use any of
these? Anyone use the Richeson 9010 Brushes or Flat Wash, Badger
Softner brushes?
Jacek, If you go to
www.alternativephotography.com/books/js_post_factory.html you'll find
Issue #1 of Post-Factory Photography in its entirety, which you can
download as a pdf and print out for free. Among other "facts,
secrets, commentary," etc, you'll find Annals of Gum Control: Part
One. That's page 8. But if you go directly to page 10, you'll see the
two basic tools for applying gum emulsion (hake brush & foam
applicator), followed by detailed instructions.
That's not to say, for instance, that Richeson brushes can't do a
splendid job (which I take on faith, never having tried them), among
other strategies, but in my experience with literally hundreds of
space cadet undergraduates (most of them dragged kicking and
screaming into a required course before "alt" was cool), not to
mention my own panicked self-ed in emergency mode starting from zero,
these are the basic tools -- excellent and very forgiving... also
cheap and readily available.
Not to mention very forgiving.
As I recall, someone suggested skip the size (?). All my own tests
showed that's NOT a good strategy. Unless you're applying size as
thick as linoleum, odds are it won't solve the problem, and in case
you need a second coat, not to mention a 3rd or 4th, you'll be in big
trouble. Even if you skip a pre-shrink, wetting the paper raises the
nap and washes off whatever surface size the manufacturer has applied
-- that is, odds are you'll get serious staining with subsequent
coats...
Page 13 by the way shows variations of "bad" and "good" coating
technique. Among other basics rarely mentioned.
PS. My own limited tests with alcohol added showed it's a crock.
Judy
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