RE: "hydrocote" is spelled.....(?)
Hi Loris, I missed the discussion the first time. How long have you been using it? The manufacturer's web site says it is "super tough, super hard... polyurethane." Sometimes that means it will harden more and more as time goes, and I suppose that is good for wood application; but in photo or painting application (except maybe for oil painting that is mounted on wood), it means that it can crack as you bend the paper. We might have similar issue with Photempera (or I forgot what Peter Fredrick later called it), but I mentioned to Pete that in egg tempera painting, one is warned/advised to mount the finished painting on rigid background because egg hardens more and more in time, so a painting might crack when bended. Pete said it was a good info and he would take that into consideration in his finished prints. I don't know if this needs to be a concern for us. What is the longest print that you have with this coating on? Thanks, Dave > -----Original Message----- > From: Loris Medici [mailto:mail@loris.medici.name] > Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 6:10 AM > To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca > Subject: Re: "hydrocote" is spelled.....(?) > > Judy, > > I provided you info about the product before, will quote again: > > "POLYSHIELDR CLEAR SUPERPOLY > The supreme finish of all, short of polyester. A super tough, > super hard, non-yellowing polyurethane that is UV stable to > meet the most demanding wood surface protection, interior and > exterior. Designed for finishing and refinishing of all > interior and exterior wood furniture, kitchen cabinets, table > tops, counter tops, office furniture, flooring, children's > furniture and toys, school desks, pews, bathroom fixtures and > above waterline marine woodwork. Highly versatile - apply by > brush, spray or wipe on. Self-sealing (for exterior > application), or seal with our Clear Wood Sealer (for > interior application), if so desired." > > I can't see any mention of "amber tone" in the the > description (unless crypted in a manner I can't understand), > and the product I have / use is perfectly neutral (both in > the can and after application) and it absolutely does not > tint the image in any way. > > Also, it dries completely in about 2-3 hours. Actually, the > finish itself hardens and loose its tackiness in about 30 > minutes but since the paper is humid after application, it > takes another 1.5 - 2.5 hours to consider the finished print > completely dry. > > IIRC, Don also was using / have tried Hydrocote -> maybe he > can also share his experience with this product. My > experience is as stated above... > > Regards, > Loris. > > > > From: Judy Seigel <jseigel@panix.com> > > Reply-To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca> > > Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2007 01:20:46 -0500 (EST) > > To: The List <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca> > > Subject: "hydrocote" is spelled.....(?) > > > > > > A couple of folks have taken pity on my ignorance and been > kind enough > > to explain "Hydrocoat" (or is it "Hydrocote"?) ... They say > it doesn't > > yellow, but are not in agreement about its other virtues. In any > > event, to show my appreciation (and my current connection) > I went to the website. > > > > The mfr says it has an "amber tone." That doesn't count as > "yellowing"? > > Mfr also says it's "quick drying." But a printer whose expertise I > > regard with awe says it took 7 days to dry. > > > > I reflect that god created all the heavens and earth in 7 days, so > > wonder if that could be hyperbole. I also wonder if anyone > has tried > > diluted white shellac as a "varnish" for gum. I did some early > > experiments that looked promising, but got sidetracked... > > > > Thanks in advance for info or opinion... > > > > J. > > > > > > > > > >
|