Re: re-clearing pt/pd
Indeed. I'd suggest that you directly put the print into mild citric acid baths (2 or 3) after development (as also suggested by Jeremy), and then into a mixture of sodium sulfite + Na4EDTA and a final water rinse. That's what I do and it works wonderfully = zero yellow. Regards, Loris. 18 Aralık 2008, Perşembe, 9:16 pm tarihinde, Jeremy Moore yazmış: > Paul, > > Have you tested your water's pH level? If it's basic you're going to > make it very difficult to clear your prints. I do something similar to > Matt: > > 5 minutes in 120F potassium oxalate, 5 minutes in citric acid, 5 > minutes each in 2 HCA baths. My highlights have ZERO yellow to them. > You can cover a portion of the coated area with aluminum foil during > the exposure and after processing the covered area should be paper > white or you're having clearing issues. > > -Jeremy- > > On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 9:54 AM, Paul Viapiano <viapiano@pacbell.net> > wrote: >> Matt... >> >> I use a water rinse after development and 3 baths of citric acid. Maybe >> I'll >> try some HCA as well... >> >> In the image itself, what color should 90-95% white be? Wouldn't that >> slight >> wisp of tone be yellow-ish? >> >> So far, Platine is the only paper I've used for Pd printing, but I have >> a >> bunch of Fab EW to try yet. The Fab EW was great for argyrotypes, after >> acidifying of course. Also, so far, I have only used Amm Citrate as a >> developer in temps from 80-90 degrees F. >> >> Paul >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Matthew Magruder >> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca >> Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 6:56 PM >> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd >> ahh. thank goodness it was only a test strip. >> The long answer (at least my experience thus far) >> Some papers lighter papers (cranes 90# cover, platinotype, arches >> platine, >> and japanese papers) these can sometimes be "re"cleared after theyve >> been >> washed and have dried. >> But when it comes to thicker papers (Rives BFK, Fabriano Artistico and >> such) >> those things seem to retain that yellow stain no matter how long you try >> to >> "re"clear them. In fact, I've tried it before with Fabriano Artistico >> and >> during the "re"clearing the image actually started to bleach out in the >> Sod. >> Sulfate and EDTA bath long before the yellow stain would go away. >> Sometimes that residual Ferric Ox just clings on for dear life and won't >> let >> up. >> Side note, are you using only citric acid baths as clearing with >> platine? 2 >> or 3 baths? >> My main procedure is the first bath is Citric Acid, 2nd and 3rd are HCA >> baths (Sodium sulfate and metabisulfate) >> part of that train of thought being that the more alkaline HCA baths can >> help to bring the acid level of the paper/print more nuetral before >> throwing >> it in the wash. >> Just brainstorming of course. >> Matt >> On Dec 17, 2008, at 7:41 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote: >> >> Twas only a test strip but thought I'd ask... >> >> I was using Platine with citric acid clearing baths... >> >> Paul >> >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Matthew Magruder >> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca >> Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 4:37 PM >> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd >> Reprint the image Paul. >> Likely be worth it in the long run. >> matt >> >> >> On Dec 17, 2008, at 4:05 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote: >> >> Hi all... >> >> Been quiet around here lately... >> >> Just wondering if you can re-clear a palladium print after it dries...in >> case you see some yellow after drydown? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Paul >> >> >> >
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