Re: re-clearing pt/pd

[Dan Burkholder <fdanb@aol.com>]

Hi Jeremy,

How would you describe the difference between a minute or two in POx  
and the 5 minutes you mention? Do you get different results with  
different papers?

Thanks!

Dan

info@DanBurkholder.com
www.DanBurkholder.com

On Dec 18, 2008, at 2:16 PM, Jeremy Moore wrote:

> Paul,
>
> Have you tested your water's pH level? If it's basic you're going to
> make it very difficult to clear your prints. I do something similar to
> Matt:
>
> 5 minutes in 120F potassium oxalate, 5 minutes in citric acid, 5
> minutes each in 2 HCA baths. My highlights have ZERO yellow to them.
> You can cover a portion of the coated area with aluminum foil during
> the exposure and after processing the covered area should be paper
> white or you're having clearing issues.
>
> -Jeremy-
>
> On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 9:54 AM, Paul Viapiano  
> <viapiano@pacbell.net> wrote:
> > Matt...
> >
> > I use a water rinse after development and 3 baths of citric acid.  
> > Maybe I'll
> > try some HCA as well...
> >
> > In the image itself, what color should 90-95% white be? Wouldn't  
> > that slight
> > wisp of tone be yellow-ish?
> >
> > So far, Platine is the only paper I've used for Pd printing, but I  
> > have a
> > bunch of Fab EW to try yet. The Fab EW was great for argyrotypes,  
> > after
> > acidifying of course. Also, so far, I have only used Amm Citrate as a
> > developer in temps from 80-90 degrees F.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Matthew Magruder
> > To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 6:56 PM
> > Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd
> > ahh.  thank goodness it was only a test strip.
> > The long answer (at least my experience thus far)
> > Some papers lighter papers (cranes 90# cover, platinotype, arches  
> > platine,
> > and japanese papers) these can sometimes be "re"cleared after  
> > theyve been
> > washed and have dried.
> > But when it comes to thicker papers (Rives BFK, Fabriano Artistico  
> > and such)
> > those things seem to retain that yellow stain no matter how long  
> > you try to
> > "re"clear them.  In fact, I've tried it before with Fabriano  
> > Artistico and
> > during the "re"clearing the image actually started to bleach out in  
> > the Sod.
> > Sulfate and EDTA bath long before the yellow stain would go away.
> > Sometimes that residual Ferric Ox just clings on for dear life and  
> > won't let
> > up.
> > Side note, are you using only citric acid baths as clearing with  
> > platine?  2
> > or 3 baths?
> > My main procedure is the first bath is Citric Acid, 2nd and 3rd are  
> > HCA
> > baths (Sodium sulfate and metabisulfate)
> > part of that train of thought being that the more alkaline HCA  
> > baths can
> > help to bring the acid level of the paper/print more nuetral before  
> > throwing
> > it in the wash.
> > Just brainstorming of course.
> > Matt
> > On Dec 17, 2008, at 7:41 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote:
> >
> > Twas only a test strip but thought I'd ask...
> >
> > I was using Platine with citric acid clearing baths...
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Matthew Magruder
> > To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 4:37 PM
> > Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd
> > Reprint the image Paul.
> > Likely be worth it in the long run.
> > matt
> >
> >
> > On Dec 17, 2008, at 4:05 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote:
> >
> > Hi all...
> >
> > Been quiet around here lately...
> >
> > Just wondering if you can re-clear a palladium print after it  
> > dries...in
> > case you see some yellow after drydown?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Paul