From: Sandy King (sanking@hubcap.clemson.edu)
Date: 12/24/00-12:33:34 PM Z
Joe,
Now that I have seen how viable the kallitype process is for me, both
for its own qualities and for the fact that it is perfectly balanced
in speed to carbon printing, I have gone back and looked at some of
the things that need to be done to maximize the stability of the
process. What I have decided to do is use two separate clearing
baths after development, one of EDTA, the other of Citric Acid, each
for two minutes. I will also use a 1.5% sodium sulfite solution after
fixing to eliminate the hypo problem.
I made another kallitype today, this one toned with a 1:100 Rapid
Sodium Sulfite solution. There was no bleaching of the image at all
with this toner, either during toning or afterward in the fixer. The
platinum toner lead to a slight loss of density, as I noted in my
previous message. Any thoughts on what gold might do?
Sandy
>Sandy,
>
>Congratulations on your first kallitype. Nice process, isn't it? I would
>like to make one suggestion. In the future, add a clearing step after the
>developer. Like platinum or palladium printing the excess ferrous compounds
>need to be removed. Rinse the developed print for one minute in running
>water. Clear the print for a couple minutes in a bath of citric acid or EDTA
>with constant agitation. The recipe for the clearing bath is a couple of
>tablespoons full of either citric acid or EDTA in a liter of water at room
>temperture. Then follow by a minute rinse in running water. Tone and fix as
>usual.
>
>Joe
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Sandy King <sanking@hubcap.clemson.edu>
>To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
>Cc: <stwang@clemson.edu>
>Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 6:57 PM
>Subject: First kallitype
>
>
>> Well, beginners luck or what I made an absolutely first rate
>> kallitype from one of my 7X17 negatives on the very first try. I did
>> not even make a test print, just exposed the negative exactly as I
>> had for making a carbon. To say that I was stunned by the result, and
>> by characteristics of the process, is much an understatement. For
>> anyone interested here is what I did.
>>
>> 1. Coated with a rod a sheet of Bristol Rising 2-ply with the
>> standard sensitizer described in Farber, using 3ml for the 7X17
>> negative. I added one drop of 20% Tween to the sensitizer.
>> 2. Left coated paper to air dry for 30 minutes.
>> 3. Exposed with a UV light (BL tubes), with some dodging and burning,
>> for a time previously established time with this negative for a
>> carbon print. DR of negative about 1.6.
>> 4. Developed for 2.0 minutes at room temperature using the sodium
>> acetate + Tartaric acid developer for neutral gray-black tones. At
>> this point print was slightly on the heavy side, a little more dense
>> than previous carbons.
>> 5. Washed print in running water for 5.0 minutes.
>> 6. Toned with platinum (5g of sodium citrate + 5ml of platinum
>> solution #3 per liter of water) for one minute. The image lost about
>> 1/2 step of density during toning.
>> 7. Washed print for 1.0 minutes in running water.
>> 8. Fixed print for 5.0 minutes in a 2.5% sodium thiosulfate solution.
>> The print lost no more density during fixing.
>> 9. Washed print for 2.0 minutes in running water.
>> 10. Cleared print for 2.0 minutes in a 3% EDTA solution.
>> 11. Washed print for 10 minutes.
>> 12. Dryed.
>>
>> Result: Density of print close to perfect. Good deep rich shadows.
>> Neutral gray/black color.
>>
>> Thanks to all on the list who offered advice. As one will note the
>> working procedures described above combine recommendations from
>> several published sources but are not identical to any one of them.
>>
>> Sandy King
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