[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: staining in the center of a ziatype (long post)
Don Bryant wrote:
> ...
> I do have a couple of questions. 1) The highlights seem to be not as bright
> as I might like. I have a feeling that perhaps some of my negs may be too
> dense and I'm over printing. Can the highlights be brightened?
It is critical to have the negative properly exposed and developed.
A caution: Most chemicals that will brighten the highlights will also
likely increase contrast which may not be desirable. One way to
brighten highlights is to use a brighter paper.
You probably did not do this, but if the chemistry you used is developed
in potassium oxalate, the highlights will loose brightness as if fogged.
Another thing to check related to the highlights is if the print has
been fully cleared.
> 2) The paper
> surface has a fair amount of tooth. Could this be from the sizing steps?
> Should Cranes be pre-soaked and sized for Zia prints?
I would not recommend a pre-soak and sizing unless there is a definite
problem which would be solved by doing so. Dick A. likely does this for
working with and coating large prints as Carl W. has already mentioned.
It is a good idea to keep the process as basic and as simple as needed.
> ...
> 4) The lower tones seem to be lumious when wet but merge
> when dry (steps 1-3). I take this as normal but the seperation of lower
> tones and perhaps the mid tones are not as great as I would like. Generally
> the visible steps for a "properly exposed print range from 4 to 16-17. Does
> this sound right? ...
Exposure should be that to print unexposed film as black as with no
film.
The lower tones should be on the straight line portion of the film so as
to have the most separation. It is critical to have the negative
properly exposed and developed.
Lower tone separation can be helped by analog masking or digital
technique when building a new negative (enlarged or not).
Lower tone separation will be hurt by not using enough chemistry coated
per area. (This is likely if you mixed your solutions according to The
New Platinum Print. I have found these mixtures to be too weak.)
The "wet" look can be partially simulated by an overcoat of plain gum or
acrylic.
Do not be surprised if the steps end up looking different for different
images. Proper tones should be based on the image and not the steps.
--
Jeffrey D. Mathias
http://home.att.net/~jeffrey.d.mathias/