From: Judy Seigel (jseigel@panix.com)
Date: 02/03/01-06:12:59 PM Z
On Sat, 3 Feb 2001, Jeffrey D. Mathias wrote:
> Dave Rose wrote:
> > ... Red litho tape and Scotch
> > Magic tape should not create the sticky mess you've experienced with other
> > tapes. If tape adhesive does cause a mess, it can be easily removed with
> > laquer thinner or similar solvents, without harming the negative....
>
> Rather than just "Magic" Look for the Scotch "Removable Magic" Tape,
> type 811 (blue box). The "Magic" alone is for writing on. The 811
> usually removes well without any problem, although it might leave some
> residue on film (especially if left for some time or heated) and might
> abrade some papers.
>
All of this is almost certainly true, tho in the meantime, before getting
to solvent, I've gotten gummy on glass, other negs stacked with them, and
my patience. BUT method Dave describes with the register pins is 1,250,329
times more trouble then just plopping negative on top of the paper &
registering by eye on the light box. Then tape into position.
Of course I freely admit to being lazier than Dave, but facts is facts.
The ultimate problem is movement of the receiving paper after soaking &
drying ... the register method doesn't change that (tho drying method can,
also flattening after drying, also choice of paper, some are stabler than
others).
But aside from doing the pin thing (Dave, do you take them off or print
with them on, using adapted contact frame ?), I find IT'S EASIER TO ADJUST
REGISTER WHEN DOING IT BY EYE FROM THE CENTER. With the register pins you
fasten at the edges -- while the center of the paper, "center of interest"
often as not, can go any which way. For me, at least, it works better to
register center then tape with (drafting) tape at center top, bottom &
both sides to fasten neg -- while flattening & holding in position (with
3rd hand, or plexi in really tough cases).
Tape is removed after printing, also the drafting tape has less, if any
ooze, altho the tape itself is too thick to fasten extensions on neg,
possibly compromising contact. Plus, 16 by 20 negs wouldn't fit anywhere
with extensions added, not on exposure table, not on the shelf. (I don't
live in great big wonderful Wyoming, with studio as big as all outdoors,
you know.)
As for clear borders around the print, I generally mask in coating, so
there's no emulsion out there. If I've slipped & there is some it's
easiest I find to simply lay on masking strips freehand before exposing.
Try it. You'll never look back !!!!!!!!!!!
Judy
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