tonyascrizzi@juno.com
Date: 01/19/01-11:42:08 PM Z
Jack, probably I stumbled on something here anyway. Here I am looking for
a way to have the orange base color go away, but to print one needs to
have the orange base color or create it in the enlarger. Since I was just
looking to make some surreal slides, I will continue to process E-6 that
I want to print this way. Exposure speed is close to the film's rated
speed and has a narrow latitude, probably +- 1 stop.
For those who are interested in color film processing but were concerned
it was too critical to be bothered with, here is a method that puts the
fun back into developing film.
The chemistry: Russell NeoColor C-41 mini lab kit
The film: Any C-41 (or E-6 if one wants to be creative)
The Blix comes in two parts. Mix 1 liter using warm water from the tap.
Save this as it can be reused many times (about 10+ rolls of 36ex.) and
keeps well.
The developer comes in three parts. Simply mix as directed. I use 250ml
increments for my Kindermann tanks. Using an instant water heater, the
kind that fits in a coffee cup to boil water for tea, heat the developer
to 105 degrees F.
The Process:
[1] Load film in tank
[2] Pour the warmed developer and set timer for 3.5 minutes. Agitate
every 30 seconds. Do not worry about temperature control, just put
the tank on the counter and let it sit. Have enough warm water handy for
two quick changes after you dump the developer out.
[3] Pour in warm water invert the tank and dump, repeat.
[4] Pour in the blix, temperature is not important as long as it is over
85 degrees. Agitate once a minute for 8 minutes. Return used blix to the
bottle and save for the next time.
[5] Wash the film under warm running water for 2 minutes and treat with
photoflo or other wetting agent and hang to dry.
Thats it! The results are consistent and beautiful. Compared to
"consumer" chemistry, the minilab kits are very inexpensive and you get a
superior product. The only downside is that you get to play chemist and
use precision measuring graduates to mix each batch rather than "pour
contents of package A into......".
This method produces very nice negatives. I have used Champion and Kodak
chemistry also this way with good results. The key is to start warmer and
end cooler. Normal development time is 3.5 minutes but can be increased
to 6 minutes when pushing the poop out of the film to get maximum speed
and contrast. Try this for images from your telescope. You will get
bright, crisp colorful images.
Tony Ascrizzi - Electric Vehicle Systems
34 Paine St.
Worcester, MA 01605 (508) 799-5650
Web Page -->http://ElectricVehicleSystems.com
President -->New England Electric Auto Association
http://www.eaaev.org/neeaa
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