From: James Young (jamiehy@globaldialog.com)
Date: 07/18/01-12:17:35 AM Z
>Sam Wang wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Years ago we coated a wooden sink at school with fiberglass resin
>>without the cloth. All I can say is don't do it! Another sink of
>>mine was coated with marine epoxy. The seams never healed but it
>>didn't leak.
>>
>>So, get Rhino Hide if you can find it and afford it. If not, try
>>the PVC sheets.
>>
>>Sam
>
>
>The Rhine Hide works great if you can find a local applicator.
>However, a couple of coats of marine epoxy over plain plywood also
>makes a very durable surface. After all, this kind of surface holds
>up well in marine environments with great excess of sun and salt.
>However, to stabilize the plywood you *must* coat both sides. If you
>only coat the top it will be found that the bottom is left to absorb
>and release water (thereby swelling and contracting) which will
>inevitably result in cracks on the top. This is, in my opinion, the
>problem that Sam experienced with the wooden sink described above.
>
>Sandy King
Thanks for all the info from everyone. I'm leaning toward the
elastoseal roofing stuff as this is just going to be a part time
extension onto my regular stainless sink. I need a 10' extension to
develop 16" by 10' plus cirkut negs and to do occasional prints from
the same. I've found it easiest to tray develop the negs so far,
though other options are being considered for negs longer than 10'.
Using coating material on both sides is always a good idea with wood.
Figuring out how to deal with the big negs has been fun and
challenging. I'm guessing I'll limit photos I take to the size of
glass I can get easily which is 144". The camera is capable of taking
a eighteen foot photo, but handling gets to be a real challenge. I've
finally got everything working and film so hopefully will be doing
some big van dykes in a month or so.
Jamie Young in Madison WI
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : 08/02/01-11:56:46 AM Z CST