From: Judy Seigel (jseigel@panix.com)
Date: 11/13/01-10:07:01 PM Z
On Tue, 13 Nov 2001, shannon stoney wrote:
> Right now I am experimenting with Van Dyke prints. I have some
> directions that say to use three changes of fixing bath per 8x10
> print. I assume you can reuse the fixing baths, like with any other
Shannon, WHERE did you get those cockamamie directions? I've
tested VDB up the wazoo, read everything I THOUGHT was in print, or could
find, and NEVER saw such nonsense. First of all ANYWAY, when you say
three fixing baths, it's meaningless unless you say how much volume, let
alone what strength...
And the LENGTH of fixing is as crucial as the strength of the mix. I
tested range from weakest to strongest, shortest to longest bath. Found
that about 1 heaping tbsp (25 g) ammon thiosulfate (crystals)/ 16-18 oz
water for ONE TIMED MINUTE with agitation bleached the least but fixed
completely -- that's assuming you've given a GOOD RINSE after exposure and
before fixing (at least 5 minutes), so unexposed emulsion is washed out &
doesn't contaminate the fix. If it's a big print & therefore difficult to
do evenly in 1 minute, dilute a bit more and do for 2 minutes. If you
don't believe me, try some 21-step tests....
How did I test for complete fixing, you might ask. I have two tests, maybe
someone on the list can suggest another:
1. I put fixed washed print half under UV light for 1 hour. another for 2
hours.(Exposure was circa 4 minutes.) Looked for change.
2. I checked after 15 years, looked for change.
There are residual iron tests (tiron) and residual silver tests
(selenium), I got the tiron but never did the test. I tried the selenium
residual silver test but it didn't work with VDB.
You can (they say, I haven't done but others have) use regular print fix
diluted 1:20.
My tests showed that as soon as you get a color change (from golden to
brown) it's probably "fixed" -- that's instantly. Fix for twice that time
& you're probably safe. Go longer & you're going to start bleaching the
print. Of course if you allow for that by exposing more it probably evens
out. Also, paper is probably a factor in timing -- thick absorbent paper
has to rinse/fix & wash longer...
As for judging the total effect -- VDB probably has most drydown of any
process -- you don't know what you've got til it's dry for AT LEAST 24
hours.
Meanwhile, whoever said use 3 fixing baths -- tear up anything you have
from them & wash your hands afterward.
Judy
> silver process? Or does Van Dyke exhaust fixer quicker than other
> processes? Another set of directions just said to "fix normally,"
> whatever that means. For POP I was using two fixing baths, say A and
> B, five minutes in each. After a lot of prints, I discarded A and
> replaced it with B and made a fresh bath for tray B. Would a similar
> system work for Van Dyke prints, or do you really need three fixing
> baths?
>
> I really liked my POP prints but decided that it was too expensive to
> use the gold toner all the time. One problem was, it seems that when
> you start a new printing session you have to mix up a new batch of
> toner, rather than continuing to replenish the old batch, as you do
> during a printing session. I wonder why this is.
>
> Does anybody else have a less expensive favorite toner for POP?
>
> --shannon
> --
>
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