From: Wendy Mackender (haircuts1@bigpond.com)
Date: 09/07/01-10:22:53 PM Z
Hi Christina,
Me again!! Thanks for all that info.
You mentioned heating the Liquid Light - "heat the emulsion up to about
100-120 degrees,"
Am I right in presuming that is faranheight?
Excuse my asking all these questions but I have no instructions on how to
use this.
Oh! by the way I live in Australia. So that is why I am asking re the
farenheight question as we measure temperature in Celsius. The climate
where I live is quite cold although we have just come into spring a few days
ago.Hopefully it will warm up soon.
Thanks again
Wendy
----- Original Message -----
From: Christina Z. Anderson <zphoto@montana.net>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2001 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: Liquid Light
> Wendy,
> LL can be exposed tacky (meaning a bit wet). Other brands do not
> recommend this. I have successfully coated LL and others and had it dry
and
> exposed it weeks later, so that is also OK. But try LL tacky. Where do
you
> live?? In MT in the winter/spring, my paper easily dried bone dry in an
> hour or so. IF humid where you are, this would not be the case. A heater
> in the area would be fine as long as you are not heating the paper I would
> think. I mean, you initially heat the emulsion up to about 100-120
degrees,
> correct, so if the heater was at a nominal 80, it'd still be just fine.
Use
> an ordinary paintbrush, anything that spreads--just watch out for foam
> brushes because they can leave rows of unpopped bubbles. I got a great
> "milk moustache" on this nude I did, that way.
> Ceramics, as well as glass, need cleaning and subbing or the stuff
will
> slough right off. Sub both with a hardened gelatin coat. Fabric needs no
> prep. Method of subbing glass: first, do not clean glass with soap with
> this method, as it may leave a film deposit. Clean it with sodium
> carbonate--sal soda, washing soda, Arm and Hammer. Let it dry. Then,
take
> 1 teaspoon of Knox gelatin per pint of water, and sprinkle it in cold
water
> and let it stand for 15 minutes until dissolved. Heat gently on the stove
> until melted. Add 10 drops of chrome alum to each ounce (30 cc) of this
> solution, and pour the hot solution onto the glass. Allow to dry 4 hours
or
> overnight.
> Chris
>
> > Christina,
> > Wendy Again. A few questions:
> > When you say tack dry, Do you mean a bit sticky?
> > Could I put a heater in the darkroom to help it dry?
> > I have heard of it being put on material and china. Is there any special
> > preparation for that?
> > Do I put it on with an ordinary paint brush?
> > Thanks again Wendy
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Christina Z. Anderson <zphoto@montana.net>
> > To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> > Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2001 12:33 PM
> > Subject: Re: Liquid Light
> >
> >
> > > Totally disagree. I had a bottle of liquid light for several years,
> > > unopened, on the shelf, hot and cold all year long through summer and
> > > winter, and it was great. Not only that, liquid light is said to be
low
> > in
> > > contrast....no way. This was plenty contrasty. It was Rockland
Liquid
> > > Light...the only way to prove this one way or the other is just go
> ahead,
> > > coat a sheet of paper, let it dry tack dry, and expose and develop it.
> > > You'll only waste about 5 min of coating time as opposed to throwing
$30
> > > down the drain.
> > > Chris
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Gary Miller <gmphotos@earthlink.net>
> > > To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> > > Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 7:03 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Liquid Light
> > >
> > >
> > > > If the liquid light has been frozen it may be useable. If it has
been
> > > > refrigerated or on a shelf it is dead.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
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