From: Adrian Joyner (ajbr22709@blueyonder.co.uk)
Date: 02/26/02-06:40:28 PM Z
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adrian Joyner" <ajbr22709@blueyonder.co.uk>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 10:49 PM
Subject: Re: Digital Negatives
Very little to add to Johns advice except to concur that digital negative
production does need great attention to detail in order to produce a digital
file with a smooth believable tonal range.
Buy Dan Burkholders book www.danburkholder.com . It will tell you most of
what is needed. Download the 2000p curves from his website and although
they
are for platinum will prove to be a good starting point. Make sure that you
print a stepwedge as part of the digital neg and use this to decide on any
changes you want to make on the correction curve.
Making digital negs for silver printing is the most difficult but in my
experience, at least on a 1270, it can be very successfully done.
Lastly, if ever you get the chance to do a Burkholder workshop - take it.
You'll learn all about digital negs and in the process be taught a workflow
that will be invaluable for any high quality digital work as well as have a
lot of fun.
Adrian Joyner
Clevedon
England
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Campbell" <tojohn@texas.net>
> To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 9:30 PM
> Subject: RE: Digital Negatives
>
>
> > Hi, Carl
> >
> > I imagine you'll get several responses to your post, so let me go ahead
> and
> > open the fray!
> >
> > Make sure that your monitor and printer are calibrated correctly (by
> running
> > a step wedge through your entire process and making corrections with the
> > transfer function. Check that the gamma of your scan is correct for the
> > film you are working with. Do your initial curve, color, and contrast
> > corrections in the highest bit data mode that your scanner is capable of
> > putting out. You will want a smooth histogram, as opposed to one with
gaps
> > and fingers in it-the telltale signs of posterization. Do your basic
> > editing using layers, adjustment layers, filters, etc., as economically
as
> > possible. Apply the correct curves for your intended media and process.
> > Invert the image and save it in Genuine Fractals (.stn) format. Close
the
> > file. Re-open the file to 8x10 with ppi=450. Apply a minimal
UnsharpMask.
> > Print that baby using dye based, rather than pigment, inks. (It's also
> > critical that your print heads are aligned on the media itself (i.e. the
> OHP
> > film). I re-align mine every time I change from one media to the
other. )
> > Fire up your trusty Gecko UV light box and print a masterpiece!
> >
> > That's all there is to it-give or take several hundred unforeseen
> variables.
> >
> > But hang on! Rectifications, modifications, errata, addenda,
differences
> of
> > approach, and splittings of the hair will soon follow from other (more
> > proficient) members of the group. I yield, in advance, to their
> correction.
> >
> > ;~>
> >
> > --John
> >
> > http://www.photogecko.com/
> > Home of The Gecko UV Light Box
> > "Get The Gecko!"
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Carl Sander Socolow [mailto:csocolow@mindspring.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 2:44 PM
> > To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> > Subject: Digital Negatives
> >
> > Sorry if this repeating something that has been hashed out excessively
> > in the past. If so, please point us to the archives. In the meantime,
> > can anyone offer advice and/or workflow for producing digital negatives
> > via an Epson 1680 transparency adapted scanner through a Mac
> > G4/Photoshop 6.0 and output throught an Epson 2000P onto Pictorico OHP
> > Transparency film? WE would like to make 8x10 digital negatives for
> > silver and/or cyanotype or POP contact printing. So far, we've had
> > banding and posterization problems on the output negs. Thanks in advance
> > for any help.
> >
> >
> > Carl Socolow
> >
> >
>
>
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