From: John Campbell (tojohn@texas.net)
Date: 01/22/02-03:09:10 PM Z
Hi, Nick-
I'm not sure I know what you mean by spraying. I am using the Cone pigments,
but not the PiezzographyBW driver (not, that is, for negatives). They adhere
and dry okay on the Computer-GRAFIX material. I spray (?) a matte coating
on the Canson vellum, just for emotional support ;~>
With both media, I still get a spot or two of micro-banding-especially in
denser regions. This seems to happen after the Eppy 3000 stops to think
about things in the midst of printing, if you know what I mean-the thing
prints along just fine until about of a third of the way, then pauses, parks
itself, thinks about several things, and then goes back to printing. If it
happens to be in a dense area when it starts printing again it gives a spot
or two of bands along the way. BUT! I've started using a fluffy watercolor
brush (Winsor & Newton series 240, size 3, to be precise) to lightly brush
out the bad bad band lines as the print comes out of the machine. So far,
so good. Another unpredictable and maddening phenomenon is the occasional
random single line the Eppy sees fit to deposit for no particular reason
than its own morbid pleasure.
For what it's worth, I used to rip, shred, stomp, and burn negative prints
that were flawed. I wasted a lot of media. Now days I use brushes,
watercolor pigments, charcoal pencils, razor blades, and erasers to correct
many problems. Somehow in the crazy mix between me, the equipment, the
software, the inks, and the media, I manage very few flawless negatives. A
cosmetic make-over on each one has really helped the results, and my
disposition has benefited greatly.
It would really help to find out the chemical composition of the Cone ink
solution-or, better yet, what would be a reliable non-devastating VERY WEAK
solvent for the neutral carbons. I'm thinking it would be nice to lightly
dissolve and blend real problem areas. I know water doesn't work (even if
diluted!); nor does alcohol (well, not scotch, anyway). Any clues out there
in AltLand?
My mid tones are looking okay-at least through my presbyopic eyes. Are you
applying a Pt Curve before inverting your image to negative? Just a
thought.
Let me know if any of this is getting at your questions. And please forgive
my lengthy prattle.
I hope you (all) are well,
--John
www.photogecko.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Nick Makris [mailto:nick@mcn.org]
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 7:56 AM
To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
Subject: Re: Computer-GRAFIX 2/side matte
John, And does your ink (assuming pigment base by Cone) adhere and dry
without spraying??? If not Cone, what ink?
My recent testing shows a huge problem with spraying the image - while it
looks great as a reflected image, the mid-tones run together badly when
transmitting UV....
Many thanks,
Nick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kees Brandenburg" <info@co-web.org>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 2:05 AM
Subject: Computer-GRAFIX 2/side matte
> John,
> Yes.... please tell us about your negative making workflow with
> Computer-GRAFIX 2/side matte and epson/piezo. What problems did you
> have with Pictorico?
> Do you have some more information on this Computer-GRAFIX stuff. Who
> is the manufacturer - is there online documentation on this product?
> Availability in Europe?
>
> Kees
>
>
>
> >I am contact printing to several different media-- Centennial POP, Pt/Pd
> >(and gold) hand-coated papers, and playing around with hand-coating wood
> >surfaces, as well. The aforementioned "Computer-GRAFIX 2/side matte
> >translucent imaging film" fills the bill (so far) on all counts-producing
> >good negatives in a wide range of D-Max images. I have made other
> >adjustments in the overall configuration (the Epso-Piezeo combination)-if
> >anyone is interested I'll be glad to provide the specifics.
>
> --
>
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