From: Christina Z. Anderson (zphoto@montana.net)
Date: 03/08/02-08:20:45 PM Z
Ok, this all makes more sense to me. I remember reading somewhere that
warmtone papers don't achieve a true grade 5, and thus, being lower contrast
in general, could produce less effective sabatiers. However, Forte
Polywarmtone Plus Elegance does have a true grade 5 capability in their
paper, although the speed of the paper when using the 5+ filter goes way
down. The speed of the paper is 160/100/50/25 in no filter/with
filter/4-4/5 filter/5+ filter respectively. Hence, in theory I agree with
Judy, below, in that probably all bets are off with modern papers and old
rules. Perhaps in practice, tho, the speed of the paper (being so slow with
Forte at higher filter numbers) does affect the success of the sabatier.
My sabatier developer i use that has been so wonderful is the Rainwater
77 one--from none other than this list. I also used, with success, the
Jolly generic solarol one, but much preferred the Rainwater.
Confusing all of this is the fact that there are basically three papers
available nowadays: bromide, chlorobromide, and bromochloride. I think Azo
is the only silver chloride paper out on the market, n'est-ce pas? But the
variations within the papers themselves of amounts of bromide vs. chloride
makes everything kinda up for grabs.
The process I used successfully was a flash in the tray of developer,
so no reexposure to the original negative. I also used the duotone method
with potassium bromide added to the second developer tray, and then Jolly's
chromoskedasic solarization.
I also use Forte exclusively, but when I solarized I used Ilford MGIV
glossy.
Thanks all for the input. I will be testing the warm paper theory soon and
let you know the hap. But *after* spring break which begins (thank heavens)
today.
OH, also, VC papers reverse just fine--all the 200 prints my students
did this semester were all VC.
Chris
> First of all, in my experience, all bets are off with modern papers. It
> was always a "rule" that VC papers wouldn't reverse, but they do. So what
> age papers does that rule refer to? If it ever had any validity, I'd say
> maybe the warmtone were silver chloride & the cool were silver bromide
> which reversed better... (For all I know, the tonality is the other way
> around, but my Brovira was COOL, and I take the "bro" to mean bromide.)
> Anyway, I solarized mostly with old Brovira #6 & found it was the GRADE of
> the paper, not the tone that made the difference.
>
> HOWEVER, what and how are you solarizing with? I did a
> through-the-negative reversal that worked differently from the full
> exposure white-light reversal. I think that Solarol-type developers work
> differently. Those developers were NOT good for my method, but worked well
> for others. So odds are there are other variations from "the rules" as
> well.
>
> Is that perfectly clear?
>
> best,
>
> Judy
>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : 04/10/02-09:28:54 AM Z CST