Re: All Wet?

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ARTHURWG@aol.com
Date: 11/04/02-02:06:34 PM Z


Hi Jeff.
   I'm just starting out in wet-plate but I've recently done a workshop with
John Coffer and a lot of research, so here goes:
    Probably the best, or at least the best-known of the period wet-plate
manuals is "The Silver Sunbeam," by J. Towler, MD, first published 1864 but
available in reprint. I have two, so if you want one, let me know.
   There are also the manuals published by John Coffer (hand written but very
complete, with Albumen printing included), and by Mark Osterman of Scully &
Osterman, Rochester. You can also buy the remaining back issues of The
Collodion Journal (now defunct), also published by S&O.
   As you probably know, virtually any view camera can be converted to
wet-plate use, but this requires a ground glass adapter that allows the
screen to swing away, and a wet-plate holder that fits the adapter, etc..
     I've gone the whole 9 yards and had a replica 8x10 wet-plate camera
built by Ray Morganweck of the Star Camera Co., New Jersey. This comes with a
set of inserts allowing your choice of size/formats replicating traditional
tintypes etc.. I'm using an old Petzval portrait lens at the moment.
    Glass plates are easily made from window glass, but traditional tintype
plates must be "Japanned" with asphaltum, and baked. Thankfully, Tim Merritt
makes 5x7 plates for sale at $2.50 ea.
     The chemistry is available, but not so y easily as collodion requires
grain alcohol and either. The preferred fixer (for aesthetic reasons) is
Potassium Cyanide, can be very dangerous. Hypo can also be used, but the
images so fixed may not look as good.
   Because the plates must be sensitized and process near the camera, you'll
probably have to build a portable "dark box" as well. Instructions for this
are found in Coffer's manual.
   As you can see, the whole thing requires a substantial commitment, but if
you love the look of Ambrotypes, Tintypes and wet-plate negatives, its worth
it.
   Hope this helps. Arthur


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