From: Judy Seigel (jseigel@panix.com)
Date: 03/23/03-12:26:30 AM Z
Let me just add one suggestion to the protocol below: My students,
assigned to do two variables tests each semester, often -- surprise !--
picked something really easy. One of the easiest was varying the TIME of
the VDB wash before fixing. (In this I always explained that it wasn't
necessary to be "original," that confirming or disconfirming OTHERS'
findings was an important part of science.) These tests usually showed
that a longer wash before fixing usually gave a brighter, stronger print.
Like 5 minutes or ,even more.
Judy
On Sat, 22 Mar 2003, James Young wrote:
> >Van Dyke prints should have very good permanence if processed
> >correctly. I have some test prints that have been exposed to outdoor
> >light for over a year and show no sign at all of fading or
> >yellowing. My procedure is as follows.
> >
> >1. Initial wash for a couple of minutes in running water. The water
> >for this wash should be neutral or slightly acidic.
> >
> >2. Tone with gold, palladium or platinum. Toning is very important
> >for long-term permanence.
> >
> >3. Wash for one minute.
> >
> >4. Fix in two separate fixing baths for two minutes each. The second
> >bath is always fresh.
> >
> >5. Wash for one minute.
> >
> >6. Soak in a fresh solution of 1% sodium sulfite for two minutes.
> >
> >7. Wash for 20-30 minutes.
> >
> >With this procedure there is virtually no loss of image density in
> >the fixing bath so it is not necessary to overprint.
> >
> >Sandy King
> >
> >
> >
>
> Thanks for your advice Judy , Grace, and Sandy. I should try a
> residual hypo test, as well as fix time testing. Lot's of things to
> experiment with. Jamie
>
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