From: Phillip Murphy (pmurf@bellsouth.net)
Date: 05/05/03-08:30:38 PM Z
Hello Sandy,
I recently needed a constant heat source for my Daguerreotype buff holding
box.
The one I use might serve your needs as well.
http://www.infraredheaters.com/ese.htm
These heaters fit any "edison" type screw-in ceramic fixture.
A small flood light bulb puts out slighly more heat per watt and is much
cheaper.
I"m thinking: a small box with ceramic base wired at the bottom
and a copper pipe at a height slightly above the ceramic heater
traversing the box. The distance above the heater will need to be
determined based on experimenting for optimum temperature inside of
the copper pipe. Stainless would work equally as well for this.
Petco sells another manufacturer's brand of similar design. However,
they are more costly.
best regards,
Phillip
Sandy King wrote:
> Guess I had better explain what I am doing so you will really know
> that is alt stuff.
>
> For a while now I have been making carbon tissue using a flexible
> magnetic sheeting frame over a plate of galvanized steel, in which I
> pour the pigmented gelatin. I pour an excess of solution into the
> opening, and then smooth it out by rolling over it with a very warm
> stainless steel rod of about 1 1/4" OD, which leaves a gelatin
> coating exactly the same thickness as the magnetic sheeting material.
> The rod is preheated to about 110F before I began the coating
> operation, and at this temperature it works perfectly, smoothing out
> the surface of the carbon tissue, blowing away the bubbles and oil,
> and leaving a surface that is mirror smooth and nice as any
> commercial tissue one might have been able to buy in the past. The
> problem is, the rod cools quickly.
>
> What I want to do is encapsulate a submersible heater inside a water
> filled hollow tube of stainless steel to keep the rod at a steady
> 110F, thus obviating the need to return it constantly to hot water
> for re-heating. The problem is those aquarium folks are concerned
> about those wimpy little tropical fish getting warmer than about 95F
> so they have a setting on the heater that prevents you from setting
> it at more than that temperature and cooking their tails.
>
> And thanks for all the advice, here on list and off.
>
> Sandy King
>
> >Sandy King said in his message...
> >
> >>The question is, does anyone know a source for small submersible
> >>pumps of the type used in aquariums (round, 6-12" long, about 5/8"
> >>diamter) but which allow for heating to 115-25F? The aquarium pumps
> >>have a limit of around 90F, which is good for fish but it fall just
> >>below my need.
> >
> >I've been using the same submersible aquarium heater for 19 years and was
> >sweating it's demise for that very reason: the new ones have a limit that
> >prevents cooking the fish.
> >
> >A friend and student provided peace of mind by kindly giving me a
> >terrific tray heater that has no moving parts and includes evaporation
> >protection that cuts the heat if the tray solution level drops too low.
> >
> >Doran Enterprises has the Temperature Control Model TC-750 at the
> >following:
> >
> >http://myweb.ecomplanet.com/DOEI4233/
> >
> >This unit is adjustable and will let you crank your developer temperature
> >to 115F and higher. I use it to heat water in a larger try in which my
> >developer tray rests on four stainless Nikkor reels (gotta use those old
> >phylm things for something). It's a standard double-boiler setup.
> >
> >Hope this helps!
> >
> >Dan
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