RE: Fixing Lumin Prints

Liam -

I just wanted to get a better understanding as to what you were saying. Do you
mean that you would fog the paper, develop with a weak developer without
fixing, then continue from there? I can see where that would help with the
exposure (or at least make it different), but don't you still have the same
problem when it comes time to fix? If you are right that fixing changes the
way the light is reflected (I think you are probably right in this), then I
would think that you still encounter the same situation.

Also, can you elaborate on the idea of using an iodide bath? Would it do
anything similar to toning?

Cheers -

george

--- Liam Lawless <liam.lawless@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> RE: Fixing Lumin PrintsI think the loss of colour in the fix is unavoidable
> because fixing removes silver halides and thus alters the configuration of
> the silver grains (compacting them) so they don't reflect light in the same
> way. Whether the fix is strong or weak, if it does what it needs to do,
> it'll remove the silver halides.
>
> Missed the start of this thread and therefore not sure if I'm talking about
> the same thing, but something I used to do was to develop a print somewhat
> lightly, rinse and transfer to a very weak dev - something like D-163 at
> 1:500 or 1:1000 if memory serves - and then take into bright sunshine for
> development to continue and colours to appear. Yellows, greens and browns
> on cold papers, blues, pinks and purples on warn, but they all turned
> grey-brown in the fix. Maybe an iodide bath would stabilise the halides
> without removing them?
>
> Papers ain't what they used to be, but I used to get interesting tones by
> bleaching a silver print in ferricyanide-chloride or similar, then
> redeveloping under a bright light in (e.g.) D-163 at 1:200. If it's
> redeveloped to completion, it shouldn't need fixing.
>
>
>
> Liam
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Baird, Darryl [mailto:dbaird@umflint.edu]
> Sent: 12 September 2005 15:30
> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> Subject: RE: Fixing Lumin Prints
>
>
> I think this is a very good question. I also tried a 10% solution of hypo
> and the colors largely faded (those were on the bottom row of my examples).
>
> I'm about to try a 2% solution, similar to the argyrotype process for two
> miutes and see what happens...this will be on a dark-stored (one week)
> image.
>
> ...to be continued
>
> Darryl Baird
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: George L Smyth [mailto:glsmyth@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Sun 9/11/2005 9:46 AM
> To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> Subject: Fixing Lumin Prints
>
> I have tried flowers and am not getting great colors. Unfortunately, when
> I
> fix the paper the majority of them go away. I tried fixing with 10%
> sodium
> thiosulfate but that is way too strong. My question is "how little can I
> fix
> with the hopes that the paper will be properly fixed?" How far can I
> dilute
> the fix and still have it effective, or am I just out of luck?
>
> Cheers -
>
> george
>
> Handmade Photographic Images - http://www.GLSmyth.com
> DRiP Investing - http://DRiPInvesting.org
>
>
>
>
>
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Received on Mon Sep 12 18:56:12 2005