RE: Cyanotype

From: Loris Medici ^lt;mail@loris.medici.name>
Date: 02/15/06-09:20:44 AM Z
Message-id: <008d01c63243$6c329610$f402500a@altinyildiz.boyner>

Forgot to ask a question related to the speed of Cyanotype-Rex.
 
Since you say that Cyanotype-Rex is very fast compared to traditional
formula (to the extent of being able to be used in-camera), I wonder:
1) Do you get a positive image or negative image when used in-camera? If
negative, do you think the density and color will be enough to contact
print the negative onto another Cyanotype-Rex paper (or other process)?
If positive, since the Cyanotype emulsions we know (both traditional and
new cyanotype) are only sensitive to UV, what would be the purpose of
using of it in camera? I mean one may not take photographs indoors or
UV-poor days (winter, overcast weather) if the -Rex emulsion is only
sensitive to UV like the former variations
2) Can we use it under enlarger? (If it's a positive-negative process
then this may be a very good advantage - saving us for making enlarged
negatives.)
 
TIA,
Loris.
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Loris Medici [mailto:mail@loris.medici.name]
Sent: 15 Şubat 2006 Çarşamba 16:23
To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
Subject: RE: Cyanotype

My point in using New Cyanotype is quite simple: I can get better dmax
(darker void black) with New Cyanotype, therefore more apperent contrast
(I come from silver-gelatine printing and sometimes miss the dark tones
I could get with FB glossy silver-gelatine paper). To get satistactory
dmax (this is a highly subjective issue; others may like the dmax they
get with Traditional Cyanotype, have absolutely no objection to that,
have seen many wonderful prints made with traditional formula even if
the dmax was not strong) with Traditional Cyanotype I had to coat the
paper twice. This was a real problem since there was 2x the risk of
abrading the paper (I can be pretty heavy-handed being a large person -
220lb, 6.22' - have ruined quite a lot papers while double coating...),
also "in my practice" traditional formula is more prone to
crystallization on paper "especially when double coating" (absolutely no
good for the sake of the image and the negative). In short: I can get
better dmax with New Cyanotype (read as better dynamic range) without
the risks involved with double coating. Also the blue is slightly
different (more greenish with the traditional formula), I happen to like
the blue I get with New Cyanotype. Traditional Cyanotype still has it
uses for me such as printing on silk, cotton - it's easier and less
costly to mix large batches of traditional formula (considering both
money and the labor involved in mixing New Cyanotype).

-----Original Message-----
From: TERRYAKING@aol.com [mailto:TERRYAKING@aol.com]
Sent: 15 Şubat 2006 Çarşamba 10:51
To: alt-photo-process-L@usask.ca
Subject: Cyanotype

...
When I did I found that I got results that were so fast that we got
results in camera. We managed to achieve a range of blues and more
exciting split tones that we had with the traditional system. The
chemicals were readily available.
 
I wonder if Loris could be kind enough to explain why he uses the new
cyanotype rather than the traditional method.
...
Received on Wed Feb 15 09:21:16 2006

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