RE: ferric oxalate
Jeremy, Next time you are in the area, I'll show you the local chemical supply where it will save you even more. 50lbs bags Pot Carb is about 60.00 +/-. Eric Neilsen Photo 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 Dallas, TX 75226 214 827-8301 http://ericneilsenphotography.com SKype ejprinter -----Original Message----- From: Jeremy Moore [mailto:jeremydmoore@gmail.com] Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 5:27 PM To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca Subject: Re: ferric oxalate To tack on to the end of Clay's email, Diana, check out http://www.chemistrystore.com/ for prices on bulk oxalic acid and potassium carbonate. I have had good and quick service from them in the past to get these same chemicals. -Jeremy- On Mon, Nov 10, 2008 at 5:21 PM, Clay Harmon <wcharmon@wt.net> wrote: > Diana, > > It is pretty easy to mix up your own potassium oxalate developer from > combining oxalic acid, potassium carbonate and water. Here is a cut and > pasted recipe from Carl Weese: > >> 2 lbs of Pot Carb with 1.75 lbs oxalic acid to make 1 gallon of water. 1 >> lbs = 457 >> g and 1 gallon = 3.8 l ( top of my head but close enough as it is just POT >> OX). >> >> Mix you Pot Card into cool distilled water; about 1/2 your total volume. >> SLOWLY add your Ox Acid as it WILL BUBBLE!!!!. Add to completion and top >> off with water to make final volume. > > Clay > > > On Nov 10, 2008, at 5:02 PM, Diana Bloomfield wrote: > >> Thanks, Brian. I'm gonna have to go get that book now. >> >> I almost always use palladium with Na2 for any contrast. >> >> I noticed too-- not much info on the web, but I need to get the second >> edition of Arentz's book. >> >> Although I was in a panic some months ago, when I was getting ready for a >> show-- and I ran out of developer right at the 11th hour. I typically use >> potassium oxalate-- and, naturally, I'm 1,000 miles-- at least-- from >> anybody who sells it. And my platinum printer friend here was out of town-- >> so, I did find this little recipe for a sodium acetate developer on the >> web-- a weird mix of distilled white vinegar and sodium bicarbonate-- all >> readily available at my local grocery store. I had to go buy this stuff by >> the gallon/pound-- and felt like a Mr. Wizard mixing up this concoction-- >> but it worked like a charm. Definitely a cooler (less warm) look in the >> final print, but it worked fine. And the prints still look good. :) >> >> >> >> On Nov 10, 2008, at 5:48 PM, Brian Pawlowski wrote: >> >>>> Thanks Brian. So that's it-- nothing else added? I was heating the >>>> water, but maybe it should be hotter. >>>> I do like the Chubby Checker idea, though-- I'll try that and-- you >>>> know-- dance like I did last summer. >>> >>> So, what Pt/Pd process for contrast will you use? >>> >>> That affects the solution. Na2 process uses Ferric Oxalate in water >>> as the sensitizer, Na2 contrast agent (smidgen), and Palladium sol'n >>> (will *not* work with Platinum!). >>> >>> Wow - I was trying to find a simple web page that describes the >>> Na2 contrast method for Palladium, but haven't found anything >>> I can fwd. The other widely used method is the ratio method, >>> and there is a pretty good write up here: >>> >>> http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/articles/platprintsimple.html >>> >>> This is all well described in Arentz Pt/Pd *Second* Edition... >>> >>> I'm a little surprised there is not more readily available canned >>> info on the web that summarizes this... Odd. >>> >>> Boy, there are other methods than Na2 and ratio methods out there >>> (Ware's approach, hydorgen peroxide Rudiak mentions, and use >>> of dichromate in developer for contrast control - all of these >>> are also covered in Arentz bible...) >>> >>> Wheeee! >> > >
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