U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: ferric oxalate

Re: ferric oxalate

Wow! There's no way I can move anything like that right now (tore a
tendon/ligament in my back), but I will need a refill in the
not-so-distant future.

Thanks, Eric.

On Mon, Nov 10, 2008 at 5:50 PM, EJN Photo <ejnphoto@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Jeremy, Next time you are in the area, I'll show you the local chemical
> supply where it will save you even more. 50lbs bags Pot Carb is about 60.00
> +/-.
> Eric Neilsen Photo
> 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9
> Dallas, TX 75226
> 214 827-8301
> http://ericneilsenphotography.com
> SKype ejprinter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeremy Moore [mailto:jeremydmoore@gmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 5:27 PM
> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> Subject: Re: ferric oxalate
> To tack on to the end of Clay's email, Diana, check out
> http://www.chemistrystore.com/ for prices on bulk oxalic acid and
> potassium carbonate. I have had good and quick service from them in
> the past to get these same chemicals.
> -Jeremy-
> On Mon, Nov 10, 2008 at 5:21 PM, Clay Harmon <wcharmon@wt.net> wrote:
>> Diana,
>> It is pretty easy to mix up your own potassium oxalate developer from
>> combining oxalic acid, potassium carbonate and water.  Here is a cut and
>> pasted recipe from Carl Weese:
>>> 2 lbs of Pot Carb with 1.75 lbs oxalic acid to make 1 gallon of water. 1
>>> lbs = 457
>>> g and 1 gallon = 3.8 l ( top of my head but close enough as it is just
>>> OX).
>>> Mix you Pot Card into cool distilled water; about 1/2 your total volume.
>>> SLOWLY  add your Ox Acid as it WILL BUBBLE!!!!.  Add to completion and
> top
>>> off with water to make final volume.
>> Clay
>> On Nov 10, 2008, at 5:02 PM, Diana Bloomfield wrote:
>>> Thanks, Brian.  I'm gonna have to go get that book now.
>>> I almost always use palladium with Na2 for any contrast.
>>> I noticed too-- not much info on the web, but I need to get the second
>>> edition of Arentz's book.
>>> Although I was in a panic some months ago, when I was getting ready for a
>>> show-- and I ran out of developer right at the 11th hour.  I typically
> use
>>> potassium oxalate-- and, naturally, I'm 1,000 miles-- at least-- from
>>> anybody who sells it.  And my platinum printer friend here was out of
> town--
>>> so, I did find this little recipe for a sodium acetate developer on the
>>> web-- a weird mix of distilled white vinegar and sodium bicarbonate-- all
>>> readily available at my local grocery store.  I had to go buy this stuff
> by
>>> the gallon/pound-- and felt like a Mr. Wizard mixing up this concoction--
>>> but it worked like a charm.  Definitely a cooler (less warm) look in the
>>> final print, but it worked fine.  And the prints still look good. :)
>>> On Nov 10, 2008, at 5:48 PM, Brian Pawlowski wrote:
>>>>> Thanks Brian.  So that's it-- nothing else added?  I was heating the
>>>>> water, but maybe it should be hotter.
>>>>> I do like the Chubby Checker idea, though--  I'll try that and-- you
>>>>> know-- dance like I did last summer.
>>>> So, what Pt/Pd process for contrast will you use?
>>>> That affects the solution. Na2 process uses Ferric Oxalate in water
>>>> as the sensitizer, Na2 contrast agent (smidgen), and Palladium sol'n
>>>> (will *not* work with Platinum!).
>>>> Wow - I was trying to find a simple web page that describes the
>>>> Na2 contrast method for Palladium, but haven't found anything
>>>> I can fwd.  The other widely used method is the ratio method,
>>>> and there is a pretty good write up here:
>>>>  http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/articles/platprintsimple.html
>>>> This is all well described in Arentz Pt/Pd *Second* Edition...
>>>> I'm a little surprised there is not more readily available canned
>>>> info on the web that summarizes this... Odd.
>>>> Boy, there are other methods than Na2 and ratio methods out there
>>>> (Ware's approach, hydorgen peroxide Rudiak mentions, and use
>>>> of dichromate in developer for contrast control - all of these
>>>> are also covered in Arentz bible...)
>>>> Wheeee!