Re: Need tips for teaching Altphoto workshop

Date view Thread view Subject view Author view

From: Peter Fredrik (pete@fotem.demon.co.uk)
Date: 12/05/00-01:29:12 AM Z


Hi Cowboy Dave,

> >vacuum contact frame is available, and the Wyoming sun is very reliable.
> >I'm thinking of beginning with cyanotype, and then going into gum
> >dichromate. I may include a brief introduction to pinhole photography as
> >well. I believe that making enlarged negatives and the laborious
> >gelatin/formaldehyde sizing of paper are too intensive and time consuming
> >for this setting, and that shortcut

Garimo's method is very similar to one a I used for a number of years at
Kingsway College North London It provided a good starting point in terms of a
large scale negative production and proved suitable for most photo/alt
processes. The method was as follows--:

First you make an enlargement the same size as the final print requirement .
Print on a variable contrast paper similar to Ilford multigrade. Make the
print one grade softer than optimum ,open up the shadows by shading and make
sure you have plenty of highlight detail by burning down ,even if this this
makes the print seem slightly heavy in tone.
And as Garimo suggested take this print to your local copy print shop. I to
have found that a colour copyer produces a better result than a normal black
and white one. We favoured Cannon photocopiers Ask nay
demand from the print operative that they produce a reproprint that look 's
as near identical to the original enlargement as possible.
Then with this reproprint in hand ,contact print it onto lith film make sure
that your contact system will give fine sharp reproduction in terms of
contact.
Use print developer at normal dilution for processing prints of say
2-3mins duration however before development do give the exposed film a pre
bath in warm not hot water for say 2 mins .This aids even development

All being well this method should produce a clean working neg that will
print with ease on most processes.and surfaces.

Also I agree with Jack ,cyanotype is the best to start with ,it is almost
impossible to make an unattractive blueprint ! providing an excelant start to
the printmaking ,after which I would recommend Kallitype/VDB then either
argyrotype or if you are rich platinum-palladium That should be more than
adequate for the first session

Pete

>
>


Date view Thread view Subject view Author view

This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : 01/03/01-03:59:41 PM Z CST