From: Eric Neilsen (e.neilsen@worldnet.att.net)
Date: 06/08/00-07:10:58 PM Z
Dan, I have a special etching tool. The instruction are printed on photo
paper, not writing paper and it has a small photo mounted on to it as an
example of how to use it. It included a sharpening stone.
If one wants another film that has a good tooth right out of the box, Kodak
4125 has an excellent tooth. If one wants to use a pencil technique, be
careful not to push too hard. You will polish that spot or area you are
working on and remove the tooth. You should have a nice soft eraser as
well. I alias don't have a bottle of retouch, but can recall the smell.
EJ Neilsen
FDanB@aol.com wrote:
> Becoming more and more of a lost art, there are several ways to retouch
> sheet film negatives. They all amount to adding density or removing
> density.
>
> Adams made a device that was a small vibrating light box that helped with
> the "stippling" action with the retouching pencils. This lead application
> method worked well on the base side of negatives.
>
> For pencil retouching on sheet film Tri-X, you're in luck because there
> is a retouching "tooth" on both sides of the film. This tooth is simply a
> gelatin overcoat that is textured so the pencil has a micro-rough surface
> on which to adhere.
>
> The fluid that Les mentioned in his good post is Kodak Retouching Fluid.
> I'm both embarrassed and amused that I could put my hands on a bottle of
> the stuff within ten seconds of reading his note! This fluid puts a
> tooth on smoother films (like Plus-X) and is (was?) also used to remove
> the pencil if one went too far with the retouching.
>
> An "abrading tool" can also be used on the base side to eliminate pin
> holes (caused by air bells on the emulsion surface during development),
> etc. This tool is basically a tiny needle point that's used to carefully
> "prick" the base surface to raise the gelatin, which in turn refracts the
> enlarger light to eliminate the black spot in the print. (Whew!)
>
> Another negative retouching technique is to abrade or etch away the
> actual emulsion. A special tool (like a tiny ice scraper) is used to
> (carefully) shave away the emulsion to reduce the silver density. Dating
> myself once more: I actually had an assignment at Brooks Institute in
> which we had to intentionally shoot a portrait with the hair light set
> too hot on the subject. We then had to shave away the dense emulsion on
> the negative to make the hair print properly. Coming from a long line of
> musicians and architects, I did a pretty good job with the retouching.
> Nothing like having obsolete skills!
>
> Lastly (at least in my post) is Kodak Abrasive Reducer. This is like
> rubbing compound and works the same way. You rub the past on the emulsion
> side to "wear away" the silver thereby reducing the density which makes
> those areas print darker.
>
> Reading back over what I've just written makes me bow down to the digital
> gods at Adobe!
>
> Hope this helps!
>
> Dan
-- Eric J. Neilsen 4101 Commerce Street, Suite #9 Dallas, TX 75226 214-827-8301 http://e.neilsen.home.att.net http://www.ericneilsenphotography.com
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